Does a Dog's Guilty Look Prove He's Been Naughty?

By Linda Cole

After a long day at work, you're tired and all you want to do is go home and put your feet up. But as soon as you open the door, you see trash scattered all over the kitchen floor and your dog has a guilty look. If you only have one pet, the naughty one is obvious, but households with two or more pets may not know which one did the dastardly deed. Before jumping to conclusions, are you sure you're blaming the right pet?

Like any pet owner, when I come home and find knick knacks lying on the floor I assume one of the cats must have had a fun afternoon dusting the table. I've even returned home to find a chunk missing out of the arm of my couch. My first reaction is to look to see who looks guilty. Trying to find the guilty cat is like trying to find the proverbial needle in a haystack! “Don't look at me. I'm a cat and we never do anything wrong.” Besides, cats believe everything in your home belongs to them anyway. So, since the knick knacks and table are theirs, it's a cat's right to rearrange them if she decides the table looks better without all that clutter.

Dogs sometimes give us a peevish look of guilt that says it all, whether they've been naughty or not. My dog Alex will sit in the corner of the couch with all of the guilty signs of a bad dog. Her face is long, her head drops low and she looks at me with the saddest eyes she can muster even though I know she's innocent. Alex doesn't get into trouble, but she reads me like a book.

I was surprised to discover which dog had taken a bite out of my couch one day. It took awhile to find the guilty one, and I never thought it would be my Siberian Husky Jake, who was around 15 years old at the time. When I questioned all of the dogs, he never once gave me any sign it was him. I totally misread him and blamed one of the younger dogs who had a history of chewing things up. Come to find out, Jake had a cohort – one of the cats. They both returned to the scene of the crime and I caught them in the act.

Dogs read our body language and our emotions better than we read theirs. And sometimes a dog can be as nonchalant as a person. I knew yelling wouldn't accomplish anything. Trying to show them my displeasure with the hole in the couch had no affect on Jake. His look said, “Don't blame me. It's the cat's fault.”

Dogs don't see things like we do and even though they do show emotions, it's not the same as ours. They may know we're upset by the way we move, our tone of voice and the look on our face, but they have no idea it's because of something they did. That's why punishing a dog or cat for chewing up a favorite afghan or breaking a precious keepsake means nothing to them and they have no idea why we're angry. They have no sense of value and it's up to us to make sure what we treasure is put up away from prying noses and claws.

Dogs and cats need stimulation – something to play with or chew on while they're home alone —and plenty of exercise to help keep them from getting into trouble when we're away. They don't get into the garbage to make us mad, and chewing is a natural thing to do when a dog is bored. They don't sit in a corner looking guilty because they know what they did was bad. Our body language tells them we're angry and that's what they understand.

The best thing you can do when you come home and find stuffing all over the living room floor or garbage spread out on the kitchen floor is to quietly clean up the mess. When you’re done, grab a handful of CANIDAE TidNips™ treats and work on their training. We want our pets to be happy to see us when we get home and not hiding in a corner with a long face. They may learn to associate a spilled garbage can with you being angry, but they don't know it was because they did it. They hide in anticipation of how you will react from past experience. Give them a break and just let it go. Instead of yelling, give your pet a massage after the incident is forgotten. Your bond with your pet will be stronger and they will always be happy to see you when you come home.

Photo by Rebekah Pavlovic

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How to Break Up a Cat Fight

By Julia Williams

If you have more than one feline in your household, there may come a time when your ears are assaulted with the awful screeching noise of two cats fighting. Most of the time, these are merely playful tussles that sound a lot worse than they actually are. The noise fighting cats make can seem like they are in a fight to the death, even if they’re really just engaged in a mock battle or trying to assert their place as Top Cat in your household. As a responsible pet owner, it’s important to be able to distinguish between a real cat fight and a “play” fight. Play fights don’t require human intervention, but all-out cat brawls do, lest one or both of your cats get injured in the fight. Learn about the body language of cats and the signals that indicate a fight is for real.

The best way to break up a cat fight is to not let one get started in the first place, and understanding a cat’s body language is a great help. The problem is that with some cats, there is a bit of a “gray area” between play and fighting. Generally speaking, growling, hissing, arched backs, flattened ears, puffed up fur and big fat tails are not good signs. Subtleties aside, if you really take the time to observe your cats’ posturing and sounds, you can usually distinguish between the mock battles and a serious fight.


Ways to Break up Cat Fights

First of all, let me tell you what not to do to break up a cat fight. Never step between two fighting cats or try to separate them with your bare hands, because you will likely get bitten or scratched. No matter how docile your Fluffy normally is, a fighting cat is focused on the fight not on you, and their stress pheromones are very high. Do not yell at the cats either, as this only increases their stress levels and adds fuel to the fire. Stay as calm as possible while employing one of the following methods.

Using Objects to Break Up Cat Fights

* Throw a laundry basket over one of the cats to separate them.

* Toss a blanket, sheet or large towel on top of the fighting cats. It surprises them and redirects their focus from fighting to getting out from underneath the covering.

* Get out the vacuum cleaner. Most cats run and hide at the mere sight of the “monster that makes loud noises,” and you may not even have to turn on the vacuum to get your cats focused on something other than their fight.

* Clapping your hands loudly and rapidly may be startling enough to break up a cat fight.

* Placing a small piece of furniture (such as a kitchen chair or an end table) between the fighting cats may startle them enough that one or both of them will retreat and disengage from the battle. 

* Use a long-handled mop or broom to separate the fighting cats and steer one into another room. Leave the cat alone in the room for at least an hour, then go in to check on them. If he seems calm, and the other cat has also settled down, you can open the door and let him out. Be sure to watch both cats carefully to make sure they aren’t going to pick up where they left off.

* If your cats are fighting outside near a garden hose, spraying them with water is a good way to break up a cat fight. Indoors, squirting them with a spray bottle of water may be enough to deter some cats, particularly if the fight is not overly aggressive. 

Breaking up a cat fight can be scary, but if the battle is a serious one, it’s important to separate the cats to keep them from injuring themselves. The best solution is to prevent a cat fight before it starts, by paying close attention to body language. When a skirmish does erupt, using one or more of these solutions should help to break up the cat fight.

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Dog Behavior: Understanding Dog Fights

By Linda Cole

Breaking up a dog fight can be difficult and potentially dangerous. If your canine family includes two or more dogs, they may all get into a fight at one time or another. It's a scary situation, especially if you're alone and there's no time to think about what to do in the heat of the battle. Even a dog who is quiet and docile can turn into a raging bull when pushed too far. Breaking up a dog fight is one of the hardest things you may have to do. It’s a good idea to have a plan in place; even better, learn about the body language of dogs to prevent fights before they begin. Dog behavior that might lead to a fight is clear and easy to see, if you know what to look for.

I share my home with multiple dogs of different breeds, personalities and sizes, and I have had to break up dog fights. Smaller dogs are easier to deal with, but it doesn't matter if the dogs are small or large; any dog fight is dangerous because one or both of the dogs could turn on the person trying to break them up. However, there are warning signs before a fight begins.

Most dog fights can be stopped before it erupts into a full blown battle if you understand what the dog's body language and warning growls are saying. Read this article for more information on a dog's body language. Dogs give warning signals that tell you what their state of mind is. You may think a dog just attacked another dog out of the blue, but if you were paying attention to the dog's behavior, there were signs. Dogs don't hide their feelings, and knowing your dog's personality and breed characteristics can help you understand the signals your dog sends to you and other dogs.

When trying to stop a dog fight, you have to be prepared to do whatever it takes, and do it as safely as you can for yourself and the dogs. Grabbing their back legs and turning the dogs until they let go of each other may work for smaller breeds, but it won't work for all dogs. Turning a garden hose on fighting dogs or spraying a solution of water and vinegar in the face might work; however, no one solution will work for all dogs and you may find that none of the expert advice works for your dogs.

You need to think about how you would break up a dog fight before it happens and how you would control the dogs’ behavior after breaking them up. I’ve written an article with tips on how to break up a dog fight, which you can read here. It's like knowing what to do in a tornado, fire or other emergency in the home. Preparation may not stop a fight, but it will help you stay calmer and be less likely to panic.

Fighting dogs will not listen to you. They only have one thing on their mind and that's fighting. Yelling does no good, and kicking or hitting them will not stop a fight. By interacting with them in an aggressive matter, you risk having one or more of the dogs turn on you. You can use a piece of plywood, a garbage can or a lawn chair to put between the fighting dogs. For some dogs, throwing a heavy blanket or rug over them can stop the fight, but not always. It depends on the size of dog and the intensity of the fight. Keep in mind, when dogs are fighting, they are in a fight to the death, as far as they are concerned. Consider the number of dogs you have, their size and breed and how capable you are in breaking up a dog fight, especially if you're alone.

There are no simple solutions for breaking up dog fights that will work for all dogs, all of the time. Your best defense is to have a good understanding of a dog's body language and pay attention to warning growls. When you know your dogs well, you can look at them and see warning signs. You can see it in their body movements, their eyes, the hair standing up on their back and neck. They will give you plenty of signals that indicate a dog fight is about to happen. By assuming the leadership role with your dogs, you have the ability to stop the fight before it gets out of hand. Taking the time to learn what your dogs are saying with their body language is safer for them and for you.

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Taming a Feral Cat

By Tamara L. Waters

Having lived in the country my entire life, feral cats have always been a way of life. They are everywhere, and they multiply at the rate of two or three litters per year. Each litter averages four to six kittens that can begin reproducing at around five months of age. It’s easy to see how feral cat populations grow out of control.

It's estimated that there are more than 10 million feral cats in the United States. The only difference between stray cats and feral cats is that strays were once someone's pet. They became lost or abandoned and live wild, scavenging as they are able. Cats later born to these strays have not had close human contact and become feral cats. Feral cats generally stay far away from humans, presenting another tricky issue: how do we cut down on the population?

While there are several Trap-Neuter-Return (TNR) programs available in various parts of the United States, they aren't always available in rural areas. Many individual home owners and animal lovers take on the role of caretaker for these wild cats in an effort to tame them, feed them, give them a home and eventually stop them from reproducing and increasing the feral cat population.

I have personally tamed more than a dozen feral cats in the last few years with the intention of spaying and neutering them to cut down the population in my area, as well as give the cats a home of their own. How do you tame a feral cat? It's not hard, at least in my experience, but it does take patience and commitment.

Feed the Kitties

The reason most cats hang around a specific area is because they've found a food source. The first step in taming a feral cat is to feed them. When you notice a feral cat hanging around your home, you should begin to put out food for them to start the taming process. If they are not brave enough to approach your home but simply hang out along the perimeter of the property, begin by putting food where you see them the most.

Make sure to use your bare hands to handle the food you put out for them. This is important as the food will pick up your scent and the cat needs to begin relating your scent with the food. Since food is necessary to their survival, they will begin to see you as also necessary to their survival. At first you may see only a fleeting view of the feral cat as it hides from your presence, but eventually you will see more of it. A feral cat – even one that is being tamed – will be wary of humans and keep a safe distance, but their curiosity and developing trust of you will eventually win out. They will begin drawing closer and allow themselves to be seen.

Name the Cats and Talk to Them

This is a personal rule of mine. I name my cats and consistently call them by name, even when they won't allow me to get anywhere near them. Talking to them allows them to hear the sound of my voice and a regularly-used word or name for them. It might seem crazy, but talk to the kitties hanging out around your home. Use a low, soothing voice at all times, which will help calm the cat.

Don't Force the Issue

Once the feral cat begins showing itself, don't force contact with it. The cat will come to you on its own terms. Continue putting food out and handling it, but don't approach the cat.

Take Time to Sit and Wait

At some point you can attempt to sit near the food you’ve put out when you know the cat is around. Don't sit too close to the food, just within a few feet of it. This will help the cat become accustomed to your presence for a longer period and not just when you are leaving the food.

You may need to do this a few times before the cat approaches the food while you are sitting nearby. The cat may also approach several times before feeling brave enough to begin eating. Once the cat has started to eat the food in your presence, you may start moving closer on subsequent visits. My rule is that I put out the food, then sit down and wait for 5 or 10 minutes. If the cat hasn't approached the food in that time, I leave. After a few days, you should be able to sit within arm's reach of the food.

Don't Make Sudden Moves

Cats are jumpy to begin with, but a feral cat who is wary and afraid of you is like a cat on a hot tin roof – pun intended. Never make any sudden moves when the cat is near you, as it could destroy any progress you've made.

Pay Attention to Body Language

It is important for your own safety, and the cat's safety, to pay close attention to the cat's body language. Laid-back ears, fluffed up tail, arched back and hissing are signs that the cat is upset and you should probably leave. Don't take chances when it comes to feral cats. Always remember the rule: if it has jaws or claws it could hurt you. On the flip side, if the cat presents its back to you, that usually means it is developing trust toward you. You should take that as a good sign.

Take it Slow

Taming a feral cat doesn't happen overnight, so don't rush it. Once you've sat next to the food for a few days, you can try to touch the cat – just make sure you watch it closely for signs that it’s agitated or could become aggressive. There will be a few fits and starts when you first try to touch the cat. Don't try to pet the cat, simply reach out with your hand and attempt to touch its fur. Try to touch only the back, not the head. The cat will jump away at first, but the more times you are able to simply touch their back the more used to it they will become.

I have found that once I get to this point, I will touch the cat's back briefly then walk away. After a few times doing that, I will try to touch them again. When you try to touch them and they don't jump away, then you can try to pet them gently. Usually by this time they have tamed down significantly and will actually want you to pet them.

Once you notice the cat arching its back when you touch them, you know you've seen the checkered flag. After this point, the cat will (hopefully) start to seek you out for company and affection. Remember, though, that just because the cat lets you pet it, it may not be keen on you picking it up. Don't push that issue too fast, and remember that the cat may not become completely tame. He will let you know how much attention and interaction he is willing to accept.

Once you have established a trusting relationship with the cat, you can now consider it more of a pet cat than a wild or feral cat. After you've had time to cultivate this special new friendship, you should plan to take the kitty to the veterinarian for shots, deworming, and spaying or neutering.

Read more articles by Tamara L. Waters