Cute, but BAD, postcard from Bad Postcards
Showing posts with label puppies. Show all posts
Showing posts with label puppies. Show all posts
Shiba Inu Puppy Cam
Tune in daily to see the cutest Shiba Inu pups… EVER!
The six Shiba Inu pups (3 boys and 3 girls) were born on Thursday, April 14th, 2011.
This is the third, and final, litter by their mom, Kika.
Live streaming video by Ustream
Here's the link: http://www.ustream.tv/sfshiba#utm_campaign=synclickback&source=http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/04/22/puppy-cam-shiba-inu-live-video-2011_n_852713.html&medium=317016
The six Shiba Inu pups (3 boys and 3 girls) were born on Thursday, April 14th, 2011.
This is the third, and final, litter by their mom, Kika.
Live streaming video by Ustream
Here's the link: http://www.ustream.tv/sfshiba#utm_campaign=synclickback&source=http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/04/22/puppy-cam-shiba-inu-live-video-2011_n_852713.html&medium=317016
How to Housebreak a Puppy
By Linda Cole
Puppies are so cute, until you find a little surprise waiting for you on the kitchen floor. Hopefully, you didn't discover it in the dark. Housebreaking a puppy can be frustrating, but it's not impossible nor is it the puppy's fault. Stay calm and committed and you'll be surprised how quickly you can train your puppy where to go.
A puppy can't control his bladder muscles properly until he's at least 12 weeks old, and he simply can't “hold it” for very long. He doesn't know going inside is bad. Housebreaking a puppy takes patience and consistent training to teach him where the appropriate place to eliminate is. Yelling at a puppy for going inside the house won't teach him anything positive. He will understand you're upset, but he doesn't connect his mess to why you are angry with him. Because dogs live in the moment, he relates your anger with whatever he was doing at that moment. If he eagerly greets you at the door and you respond by yelling at him, he learns greeting you makes you unhappy and he'll stop greeting you. You want your pup to have only positive thoughts about you. Inappropriate discipline creates unnecessary stress and a confused dog.
Housebreaking a puppy is more about you training yourself to know when the puppy needs to go outside. He should go outside after every meal, immediately after waking up from a nap, when playtime is over, and anytime you see him circling or showing signs he needs to go. Because dogs are individuals, as you get to know your puppy you'll begin to see little hints he uses to show you he needs to go outside. A bark or yip, sniffing, an agitated look, staring at the door or standing in front of it are pretty good signs he's trying to tell you something. Dogs can learn things on their own and they will learn how to communicate to you what they need. Pay attention to what he's teaching you and you will always know when he wants outside. Never ignore him when he's asking to go out, no matter what you're doing.
When housebreaking a puppy, take him outside often to the place where you want him to go. The scent from his last outing will tell him this is the place. Never allow him to roam the house when you're gone. Confine him in an area of the house with no carpeting and make sure to thoroughly clean up any messes or puddles. I'm not a fan of crating a puppy, but it does have a purpose if you don't have an acceptable area to keep a puppy in. Make sure the crate is just large enough for bedding and a few toys.
Take him out of the crate as soon as you get home and don't let him spend a lot of time locked up. Go home during your lunch break and take him out for a walk and if you can't get home, try to find a neighbor, friend or someone you trust who can. Changing your routine to accommodate a puppy will only last for a short time, but how you handle his housebreaking training will last for a lifetime. Once he learns where you want him to go and he's old enough to control himself, you can go back to your old routine.
Puppies understand our body language and our tone of voice. All you need to do to let them know you're disappointed is say in a firm voice “No, bad dog.” Pick up a mess or puddle with a paper towel. Take the paper towel and puppy outside and put both of them on the ground. Let him sniff the towel and if he goes again, praise him with enthusiasm. He will understand by your tone of voice how pleased you are and he will want to repeat it to make you happy. Praise him every time he does what you want.
Establishing a routine with your pup is important. Puppies need to go outside at least 6 or 7 times a day. While you are housebreaking him, don't play with him outside. Give him time to poke around and sniff the area. He may need to relieve himself several times before he's done, so don't rush him. When he's 5 or 6 months old, he won't need to go outside as often.
Housebreaking a puppy is about being committed, staying calm, understanding your pup and giving him lots of praise for going outside. It really isn't hard to housebreak a puppy. Keep your focus and stay patient. Stick to your routine and he'll learn the proper place to go. Then you can add something new and teach your dog how to ring a bell when he wants to go out.
Read more articles by Linda Cole
Puppies are so cute, until you find a little surprise waiting for you on the kitchen floor. Hopefully, you didn't discover it in the dark. Housebreaking a puppy can be frustrating, but it's not impossible nor is it the puppy's fault. Stay calm and committed and you'll be surprised how quickly you can train your puppy where to go.
A puppy can't control his bladder muscles properly until he's at least 12 weeks old, and he simply can't “hold it” for very long. He doesn't know going inside is bad. Housebreaking a puppy takes patience and consistent training to teach him where the appropriate place to eliminate is. Yelling at a puppy for going inside the house won't teach him anything positive. He will understand you're upset, but he doesn't connect his mess to why you are angry with him. Because dogs live in the moment, he relates your anger with whatever he was doing at that moment. If he eagerly greets you at the door and you respond by yelling at him, he learns greeting you makes you unhappy and he'll stop greeting you. You want your pup to have only positive thoughts about you. Inappropriate discipline creates unnecessary stress and a confused dog.
Housebreaking a puppy is more about you training yourself to know when the puppy needs to go outside. He should go outside after every meal, immediately after waking up from a nap, when playtime is over, and anytime you see him circling or showing signs he needs to go. Because dogs are individuals, as you get to know your puppy you'll begin to see little hints he uses to show you he needs to go outside. A bark or yip, sniffing, an agitated look, staring at the door or standing in front of it are pretty good signs he's trying to tell you something. Dogs can learn things on their own and they will learn how to communicate to you what they need. Pay attention to what he's teaching you and you will always know when he wants outside. Never ignore him when he's asking to go out, no matter what you're doing.
When housebreaking a puppy, take him outside often to the place where you want him to go. The scent from his last outing will tell him this is the place. Never allow him to roam the house when you're gone. Confine him in an area of the house with no carpeting and make sure to thoroughly clean up any messes or puddles. I'm not a fan of crating a puppy, but it does have a purpose if you don't have an acceptable area to keep a puppy in. Make sure the crate is just large enough for bedding and a few toys.
Take him out of the crate as soon as you get home and don't let him spend a lot of time locked up. Go home during your lunch break and take him out for a walk and if you can't get home, try to find a neighbor, friend or someone you trust who can. Changing your routine to accommodate a puppy will only last for a short time, but how you handle his housebreaking training will last for a lifetime. Once he learns where you want him to go and he's old enough to control himself, you can go back to your old routine.
Puppies understand our body language and our tone of voice. All you need to do to let them know you're disappointed is say in a firm voice “No, bad dog.” Pick up a mess or puddle with a paper towel. Take the paper towel and puppy outside and put both of them on the ground. Let him sniff the towel and if he goes again, praise him with enthusiasm. He will understand by your tone of voice how pleased you are and he will want to repeat it to make you happy. Praise him every time he does what you want.
Establishing a routine with your pup is important. Puppies need to go outside at least 6 or 7 times a day. While you are housebreaking him, don't play with him outside. Give him time to poke around and sniff the area. He may need to relieve himself several times before he's done, so don't rush him. When he's 5 or 6 months old, he won't need to go outside as often.
Housebreaking a puppy is about being committed, staying calm, understanding your pup and giving him lots of praise for going outside. It really isn't hard to housebreak a puppy. Keep your focus and stay patient. Stick to your routine and he'll learn the proper place to go. Then you can add something new and teach your dog how to ring a bell when he wants to go out.
Read more articles by Linda Cole
Labels:
canidae,
housebreaking,
Linda Cole,
puppies,
training
Enjoy Those Eight Stages of Puppyhood
By Tamara L. Waters
They're cute and adorable, and who can resist a sweet face (or my weakness – those squeal-inducing bellies)? Why, they're puppies of course, and if you have a new pup or are thinking of adding one to your family, you might be interested in learning about the eight stages of puppyhood. These stages are categorized according to an article titled "Stages of Canine Development" originally published in Weimaraner Magazine.
The eight stages of puppyhood are divided according to days after birth, and run into adulthood. Knowing about the stages of your puppy's development can help you become a knowledgeable and responsible pet owner, which will help you give your pet the best care possible.
Puppy Stage One: Neonatal Period - Birth to 13 days
This is the most helpless stage of puppyhood, as the pup cannot regulate its own body temperature and requires food and warmth from mama or a surrogate. During this stage, human interaction should start. Puppies should be handled gently by their humans beginning in this stage of development.
Puppy Stage Two: Transition Period - 13 to 21 days
This next stage of puppyhood will see the pup’s eyes and ears opening up. Yep, that means the puppy will start to hear, and his sense of taste and smell will develop. More human handling is on the agenda during this stage, and this is also the perfect time to start introducing your puppy to your kitties, if you have them. Just make sure they are friendly kitties!
Puppy Stage Three: Canine Socialization Period - 21 to 49 days
This stage is when the puppy begins to show his personality and figures out that he is indeed a dog. This is an important stage for the puppy to continue his time with his mama and his siblings. He will learn discipline and submission from his mother, and should not be weaned during this time. Puppies removed from their mother during this stage of development could become noisy, rowdy, and possibly aggressive.
There is a very short subperiod in this stage of puppy development known as the Awareness Period, but it is important nonetheless. During this stage – which lasts from 21 to 23 days – the puppy will experience very rapid sensory development, and it is usually recommended that radical changes be avoided during this time. Some introduction to flooring changes (for very short periods) and auditory stimuli can happen and of course, continue talking to and handling your puppy.
Puppy Stage Four: Human Socialization Period - 50 to 84 days (7 to 12 weeks)
This puppy stage is the best time for the youngster to be placed with his new family. Socialization with the puppy should continue.
This stage of puppyhood also includes a subperiod at 8 to 10 weeks, which is considered the Fear Impact Subperiod. During this time, a traumatic experience could become a lifelong issue. If the puppy experiences a fear of loud noises during this time, it could become a hang-up throughout the rest of the dog's life.
Puppy Stage Five: Seniority Classification Period - 12 to 16 weeks
During this stage, the puppy is trying to figure out who is the boss. All biting and nipping of human hands, clothing and leashes should be discouraged. If still together with his litter mates, there will be intense competition between them. By 16 weeks, the personality and emotional makeup of the puppy is fully developed and cemented for life.
Puppy Stage Six: Flight Instinct Period - 4 to 8 months
During this brief stage sometime between the 4 to 8 month mark (usually lasting 2 to 4 weeks) the puppy will try your patience. He will not want to listen, and will try to run away and not come when called. Your best bet is to wait him out and keep him on a leash until this phase passes.
Puppy Stage Seven: Second Fear Impact Period - 6 to 14 months
Your puppy will be a nutty teenager during this stage of puppyhood. We all know how teenagers can be subject to the winds of change at any given moment. Well, your puppy will be the same. The puppy will have strange fears of new things, and may flake out for no reason. This is a stage in which you will need to have great patience. When your puppy balks and exhibits this behavior, it is best to simply ignore it (much like you would with some human teenage quirks). Don't reinforce your puppy's fears by petting him and trying to offer words of reassurance, as this only tells him that it’s okay to be afraid.
Puppy Stage Eight: Young Adulthood - 18 to 24 months
Congratulations! Your puppy has arrived at the final stage. During this stage, your puppy may try to show dominance and territorial aggression. Don't be surprised if some teenage weirdness shows up occasionally. After this stage has passed, you now have a full-fledged dog who is prepared to take the world by the tail. Enjoy your time with him!
Read more articles by Tamara L. Waters
They're cute and adorable, and who can resist a sweet face (or my weakness – those squeal-inducing bellies)? Why, they're puppies of course, and if you have a new pup or are thinking of adding one to your family, you might be interested in learning about the eight stages of puppyhood. These stages are categorized according to an article titled "Stages of Canine Development" originally published in Weimaraner Magazine.
The eight stages of puppyhood are divided according to days after birth, and run into adulthood. Knowing about the stages of your puppy's development can help you become a knowledgeable and responsible pet owner, which will help you give your pet the best care possible.
Puppy Stage One: Neonatal Period - Birth to 13 days
This is the most helpless stage of puppyhood, as the pup cannot regulate its own body temperature and requires food and warmth from mama or a surrogate. During this stage, human interaction should start. Puppies should be handled gently by their humans beginning in this stage of development.
Puppy Stage Two: Transition Period - 13 to 21 days
This next stage of puppyhood will see the pup’s eyes and ears opening up. Yep, that means the puppy will start to hear, and his sense of taste and smell will develop. More human handling is on the agenda during this stage, and this is also the perfect time to start introducing your puppy to your kitties, if you have them. Just make sure they are friendly kitties!
Puppy Stage Three: Canine Socialization Period - 21 to 49 days
This stage is when the puppy begins to show his personality and figures out that he is indeed a dog. This is an important stage for the puppy to continue his time with his mama and his siblings. He will learn discipline and submission from his mother, and should not be weaned during this time. Puppies removed from their mother during this stage of development could become noisy, rowdy, and possibly aggressive.
There is a very short subperiod in this stage of puppy development known as the Awareness Period, but it is important nonetheless. During this stage – which lasts from 21 to 23 days – the puppy will experience very rapid sensory development, and it is usually recommended that radical changes be avoided during this time. Some introduction to flooring changes (for very short periods) and auditory stimuli can happen and of course, continue talking to and handling your puppy.
Puppy Stage Four: Human Socialization Period - 50 to 84 days (7 to 12 weeks)
This puppy stage is the best time for the youngster to be placed with his new family. Socialization with the puppy should continue.
This stage of puppyhood also includes a subperiod at 8 to 10 weeks, which is considered the Fear Impact Subperiod. During this time, a traumatic experience could become a lifelong issue. If the puppy experiences a fear of loud noises during this time, it could become a hang-up throughout the rest of the dog's life.
Puppy Stage Five: Seniority Classification Period - 12 to 16 weeks
During this stage, the puppy is trying to figure out who is the boss. All biting and nipping of human hands, clothing and leashes should be discouraged. If still together with his litter mates, there will be intense competition between them. By 16 weeks, the personality and emotional makeup of the puppy is fully developed and cemented for life.
Puppy Stage Six: Flight Instinct Period - 4 to 8 months
During this brief stage sometime between the 4 to 8 month mark (usually lasting 2 to 4 weeks) the puppy will try your patience. He will not want to listen, and will try to run away and not come when called. Your best bet is to wait him out and keep him on a leash until this phase passes.
Puppy Stage Seven: Second Fear Impact Period - 6 to 14 months
Your puppy will be a nutty teenager during this stage of puppyhood. We all know how teenagers can be subject to the winds of change at any given moment. Well, your puppy will be the same. The puppy will have strange fears of new things, and may flake out for no reason. This is a stage in which you will need to have great patience. When your puppy balks and exhibits this behavior, it is best to simply ignore it (much like you would with some human teenage quirks). Don't reinforce your puppy's fears by petting him and trying to offer words of reassurance, as this only tells him that it’s okay to be afraid.
Puppy Stage Eight: Young Adulthood - 18 to 24 months
Congratulations! Your puppy has arrived at the final stage. During this stage, your puppy may try to show dominance and territorial aggression. Don't be surprised if some teenage weirdness shows up occasionally. After this stage has passed, you now have a full-fledged dog who is prepared to take the world by the tail. Enjoy your time with him!
Read more articles by Tamara L. Waters
Labels:
canidae,
puppies,
stages of puppyhood,
Tamara L. Waters
Simpatico Weimaraners: Elegance, Strength & Balance

By Suzanne Alicie
It has been my extreme pleasure to interview Jennifer Martin of Simpatico Weimaraners for this article. Jennifer is a loving “dog mom” who is excited about her dogs being sponsored by CANIDAE pet foods. She was approached by CANIDAE to be a part of their Special Achievers program after contacting them to ask questions about the food she was feeding her dogs. Such care and attention to detail as a responsible pet owner caught the attention of the CANIDAE representatives. Jennifer says that she is thrilled to let people know that her dogs get noticed, in the show ring, at the vet or on a walk, and that CANIDAE All Life Stages dog food is partly responsible for that.
Elegance, Strength and Balance
As breeders, owners and handlers, Jennifer and her husband seek to ensure that Simpatico Weimaraners are the epitome of these three characteristics. The elegance, which makes a Weimaraner such a beautiful dog; the strength of character and breeding in these dogs; and the balance of temperament, mind and body. Simpatico Weimaraners are known for being exceptional examples of the breed, and Jennifer works hard to make that so.
Up early each morning to run 3-4 miles with the dogs and work with them, the Martins are dedicated to all stages of their dogs’ lives. While these dogs are “show dogs,” which basically means they are working dogs, Jennifer takes great pride that they are also their pets. The dogs are part of the family, and they live in the home and hang out together when they aren’t training or competing.
Getting Started
Jennifer and her husband originally became interested in the breed and wanted two puppies to raise as pets. A Weimaraner breeder sold them two littermates. According to Jennifer, who quickly learned, anyone knowledgeable about dogs and their pack mentalities would know that two litter mates should not be sold together. This is because one will become submissive and one dominant as they grow up together, just as a litter of six who stay in the same place will develop a leader and followers. Learning as they went, the Martins worked with those puppies and worked through the personality problems.
A few years and much wisdom later, Jennifer and her husband decided they would like to get another dog as well as learn more about the breed to begin showing dogs. Their first step was to contact Tom Wilson, the well known and reputable breeder of Smokey City Weimaraners. After several meetings with Tom to learn all they could and convince him they were the right couple to entrust one of his dogs to, he agreed to sell them a puppy. Because Tom believed in them, he selected a puppy with a strong pedigree and a champion dam.
That puppy, known as Avery, was finished by the novice handlers as their first show dog, and Jennifer’s husband handled Avery to a championship. Not only did they gain a champion dog they also formed a lasting friendship with Tom Wilson.
After Tom’s death, Jennifer used her own Smokey City Weimaraners to start her breeding program known as Simpatico Weimaraners. Out of respect for her friend and mentor, Jennifer did not continue the Smokey City name. She felt that if she did one of two things would happen, and either one would diminish the championship name. 1.) She would be trading on the rich history and success of the name instead of on her own merits, or 2.) She would not live up to what the Smokey City name stands for.
Her respect for Tom and the Smokey City name shows a great deal of character and self awareness. Jennifer is certainly doing something right, as Simpatico Weimaraners is now home to several champion dogs. A member of the AKC and the WCA, Jennifer is committed to responsible dog breeding, dog care and producing the best examples of the breed.
Breeding and Placing
Jennifer and her husband are dedicated and responsible pet owners and breeders. When speaking with Jennifer I was impressed with her sympathy towards rescued dogs and dogs without homes. As a responsible breeder, Jennifer has an ironclad contract as well as a thorough application process that demands potential puppy owners meet with her and spend time with the dogs before being approved to be a home for one of her puppies.
Because Jennifer keeps all dogs that are to be trained for show, her puppies are only placed as pets, no showing or breeding, with a spay/neuter clause in the contract as well as a stipulation that the puppy never be sent to a shelter or rescue. All an owner has to do is return the dog to Jennifer if they are unable to keep it for any reason. Jennifer says all of her dogs have a forever home with her. She is also adamant that the AKC registration papers aren’t given to any new puppy owner until she receives written verification from a vet that the puppy has been spayed or neutered. She doesn’t want to be responsible for any unwanted puppies. Jennifer stands behind her dogs, from the amazing amount of love and attention each is given from birth through adoption, to the open door policy if an owner is unable to keep the puppy, and visits from her puppies when the owners go on vacation.
Knowing the quality of life and care that Simpatico Weimaraners come from, many people who are approved for puppies are put on a waiting list and have even waited up to two years for a puppy. The bitches aren’t bred until they retire from showing at about four years of age. The career of a show dog is fairly short; after that they get to be mommies and pets.
Raising Puppies

Jennifer and her husband have a whelping area where the dam and puppies are kept for several weeks. While they are in this area, Jennifer’s husband often sleeps in there with them, and the puppies are not left alone for any amount of time for the first 4-5 weeks of their lives. It takes real dedication for two people to handle the grown dogs with exercise, attention and training while babysitting several puppies for weeks on end.
Weimaraner puppies are born with striking blue eyes and stripes. They grow out of the striping, and many of their eyes change color. It is pretty much impossible to know in a puppy whether the eyes will stay blue or not. I spent a great deal of time looking at pictures on the Simpatico Weimaraners website and have to say these are gorgeous animals. You can see the love and care that is provided for them. My favorite is the picture of them all lying on the bed; there is no room for a human in that doggie pileup.
“Jennifer’s husband” as you’ve come to know him here, does have a name, but let’s maintain the mystery a little longer and I’ll tell you a little about what Jennifer says about her other half.
“My husband is the unspoken hero, he has a great sense of humor, and he supports me.” She goes on to say that because she and her husband do it all from start to finish with their dogs he is a big help and support, working by her side to raise and show the dogs. Each time she speaks she doesn’t say “I,” she says “We.” They are a team, and from the success of Simpatico Weimaraners I’d say they are a great team.
Final Thoughts
As a responsible pet owner and breeder, Jennifer advises that anyone who is interested in dogs and their breeding should pay attention to the dog laws that are being debated and instituted, be aware of dog happenings in your community and realize that just because a dog is in a shelter or rescue it doesn’t mean the dog is bad. Please visit the Simpatico Weimaraner website to see photos of these dogs and learn more about Jennifer and her husband Curtis.
Read more articles by Suzanne Alicie
Labels:
breeder,
canidae,
puppies,
show dogs,
Suzanne Alicie,
Weimaraners
How to Train Your Puppy to Obey Basic Commands

By Suzanne Alicie
Puppies are cute and cuddly, and generally out of control. One of the first things a new puppy needs is training in basic commands. Sit, Stay, and Lie Down are the most basics commands to teach a puppy. When it comes to training a puppy it is important to be firm and consistent. Puppies learn from consistency and repetition, and responsible pet owners know that proper training can turn a wild puppy into a well mannered dog.
Teach Your Puppy to Sit
Initially you will need to get down on your puppy’s level and help him sit. A gentle push on the haunches while saying “sit” to your puppy will help him get the idea. When your puppy sits upon command the first few times, be sure to reward him with praise and a treat. One of the things we do in our house is make the dogs sit while we prepare their food bowls. It is a ritual that helps even hyperactive dogs contain a bit of that energy and mind their manners when being fed. Sit is a common command and one of the easiest to teach, even a young puppy.
Teach Your Puppy to Stay
This is a command that is a bit more difficult to teach. Puppies tend to want to follow, because they simply want to be close to you. To teach this command initially, you don’t want to step away from the puppy and tell him to stay. The easiest way to teach a young puppy to stay is to use a treat. Since repetition is the key it may be easier on your puppy’s tummy to break treats into many pieces, or use smaller treats like the CANIDAE Snap-Bits™.
Place a piece of the treat on the floor in between you and your puppy. Tell him to stay and hold a hand in front of him so that he can’t reach the treat. Scoot the treat closer to him until it is right in front of his nose, while repeating “stay.” In time you will find that when you say “stay” your puppy will do so, but it takes repetition. Consistency is the key, as well as not overwhelming the puppy with too many commands to learn all at once. Concentrate on one act at a time.
Teach Your Puppy to Lie Down
Lie down is another simple command, and an easy transition from sit. Many times when your puppy is sitting if you tap the floor under his nose he will lie down to touch your hand. So once you have repeated this action several times, start to say “lie down” when you reach toward the floor. Before you know it your puppy will lie down as soon as he hears the words. Again, treats and praise along with the repetition and consistency will help your puppy learn the command quickly.
Puppies are loving and eager to please. If you begin training early and consistently, it should not be difficult to train your puppy to obey these basic commands, and then you can move on to other tricks. Puppies can learn just about anything you feel like taking the time to teach them, from sitting pretty to dancing, jumping and speaking.
Read more articles by Suzanne Alicie
Labels:
basic commands,
canidae,
puppies,
Suzanne Alicie,
training dogs,
treats
The Challenges of Raising Litter Mate Puppies

By Linda Cole
It's hard picking out just one puppy. They're all so cute and adorable. People with room in their home and heart for two pups may not think twice about buying or adopting sibling puppies, but there could be potential harm to one or both of the pups. Raising litter mate puppies is more complicated than it sounds, and it can be a challenge.
A new puppy needs to have a chance to bond with the human who will become his pack leader. In fact, it's essential that bonding take place. Pups are ready to leave the nest when they are 8 weeks old, and their development will continue in their new home. Litter mate puppies are comfortable with each other, and can keep each other company while you are gone. The situation can change, however, once they grow up. Just because they get along as pups doesn't guarantee they will get along as adults, especially if they are both male, or both female. As full grown dogs, siblings will fight and jockey for dominance in their pack just like any other dogs would do. Female pups will also fight for their place in the pack, especially if there's a male dog in the home. Aggression and rivalries could turn into double trouble for their human parents.
When you raise pups from the same litter, you risk creating insecure dogs with behavior problems that can be with them their entire lives. There's a good chance they can be so dependent on each other that separation anxiety could become a severe problem anytime they are not together. You want them to play with each other, but they need time apart in order to learn about life away from their sibling.
Raising litter mate puppies can be a challenge, but it's not impossible as long as you are aware of what you’re getting into, and you learn how to teach each pup according to their personality and individual needs. You will need to keep litter mates separated as much as possible for the first year. Treat each puppy as an individual dog and not as an extension of its sibling.
Keep them apart from each other during housebreaking and training activities, at feeding time, and when you are giving each one attention and playing with them. This gives each pup a chance to develop their own personality, find their own identity and understand their social order in the pack. It also gives them both a chance to bond with you equally, which will help them learn how to maintain a balanced and stable relationship where they both feel secure within the home. If you crate them while you are gone, they need to be in different rooms. Take only one at a time for walks or to the vet for checkups and vaccinations. Even though they live in the same home, each one should be treated as if you have just one dog.
There are two schools of thought when it comes to raising litter mate puppies. Some breeders won't sell siblings because they are afraid they could turn out to be more than the owner bargained for and one or both pups could suffer the consequences if the new owner can't handle two pups. Other breeders feel it's up to the buyer to decide. Responsible breeders will work with you and are happy to help out any way they can. A breeder's concern is for the pups, and they want to make sure the puppies are going to a good home.
A prospective owner who understands what they are getting into and has the time and energy to properly socialize and train both pups should do fine. If you really want two dogs, a better solution might be to take one, then go back in about 6 months to pick another puppy from a different litter. If you want to take litter mates home, it will work out better to take a male and a female. Make sure to have them neutered and spayed as soon as they are old enough to prevent unwanted pregnancies.
Two puppies will require double work and expense when it comes to housebreaking, veterinarian bills, food and time for bonding, development and training. But if you do your homework and invest in the hard work and commitment needed to raise litter mate puppies, you will also be rewarded with double the love and fun of two well-adjusted individual pets.
Read more articles by Linda Cole
Labels:
breeder,
canidae,
dog packs,
Linda Cole,
puppies,
socializing a puppy
Tips for Teaching Your Puppy His Name

By Julia Williams
When people adopt a puppy, one of the first things they usually do is name him. But once you’ve decided what to call your furry new friend, it’s just as important to begin immediately teaching your puppy his name. Why is it so essential? Because once your puppy learns to respond positively and immediately to his own name, teaching him other basic commands (such as sit, stay or lie down) will be much easier. When your puppy knows his name, you will be able to get him to focus his full attention on you instead of his surroundings. Thus, teaching your puppy his name is a fundamental base for any future training.
Your first objective is to teach your puppy that when you say his name, he must immediately stop whatever he's doing, turn his head and look directly at you. With consistent training and patience, your puppy will eventually understand that the sound he hears is his own name. Later, you can teach your puppy that the sound of his name will be followed by a command.
Step One: Take your puppy to a quiet place with no distractions, armed with some dog treats (CANIDAE Snap-Bits™ are perfect treats for puppies) and a few toys that your puppy enjoys playing with.
Step Two: Put your puppy on a long lead, which will help you to keep him from wandering off if something attracts his attention elsewhere.
Step Three: Using a happy tone of voice, say your puppy’s name.
Step Four: If your puppy looks in your direction when you say his name, immediately reward him with a treat and praise, such as “good doggie.” Puppies are usually very attracted to the sound of your voice, and will naturally look towards you when you speak. By giving him a treat and praising him, you reinforce the desired behavior. Only say your puppy’s name once; if he doesn't respond, you can gently tug his lead or touch his leg so he turns to look at you.
Step Five: Hold a treat up near your face so that your puppy has to look directly at you when you call his name. Doing this will ensure that you have his full attention.
Step Six: Swap a toy for the food treat, and use a few minutes of playtime as the reward for looking at you. Experiment with different treats, toys, and tones of voice to learn which ones are the best motivators for your puppy.
Step Seven: Repeat steps one through six several times during each training session until your puppy consistently looks at you when you say his name.
The next step in training your puppy to respond to his name is to introduce distractions. The goal is to teach your puppy that no matter where you are and no matter what else is happening around him, he needs to give you his full attention when you say his name. Try training him with other family members in the room, outside in your garden, at the local park or at someone else’s home.
Training your puppy in different environments or with distractions will likely be much more challenging at first (both for you and your puppy), but it is a great way to reinforce what your puppy is learning. Remember, your puppy wants to please you, so help him do that by remaining patient and taking this stage slow.
When teaching your puppy his name, it’s important that this sound only be associated with good things. In other words, try not to use your puppy’s name when you are scolding him. Otherwise, he will form a negative association with his name and may become confused or refuse to respond to you when you call his name.
Key points to remember:
* Keep your training sessions short (five or ten minutes at a time, several times each day), and keep them fun.
* Train your puppy before a meal so he’ll be more motivated to get the food treat. Just remember to account for the extra food in his daily rations, so as not to overfeed him.
* If more than one person will be teaching your puppy his name, make sure everyone understands what to do and uses the same technique.
* Be sure to give lots of praise along with the treat or toy reward, and always end each training session on a positive note.
If you follow these simple tips, your puppy will learn his name in no time at all!
Read more articles by Julia Williams
Caring for Newborn Puppies and Their Mom

By Julia Williams
If your dog is pregnant and you’re wondering how to care for the puppies once they’re born, the good news is that most likely, all you’ll need to do is keep a watchful eye on the momma dog. Most canine mothers have a strong maternal instinct and can do a great job of caring for their newborn puppies by themselves. They will know how to keep their newborn puppies warm and well fed, and how to help them with waste elimination and hygiene. However, if the mother dog rejects her pups or cannot product enough milk for them, or you are caring for an orphan, then the puppies will need your help in order to survive and thrive.
Healthy newborn puppies look vibrant and strong, and their gums are pink. A puppy's eyes should open approximately 10 to 14 days after birth. A newborn puppy’s body weight may double or even triple during the first few weeks, and gaining 10 to 15% of their birth weight daily is considered healthy. The puppies should nurse with enthusiasm, and they often twitch while asleep.
Be sure to consult your veterinarian immediately if you have any concerns about a pup's health. Treating a sick puppy early can mean the difference between life and death. Warning signs include failure to nurse, constant crying, weakness, difficulty breathing, poor weight gain, temperature drop, diarrhea, vomiting, listlessness, sneezing, coughing, and nasal discharge.
It’s also important to monitor hydration in newborn puppies. To do this, gently pinch the skin on the back of the neck into a “tent.” If a puppy is properly hydrated, the skin will go back into place immediately. If the pinched skin stays creased, the puppy is dehydrated and will need to be treated immediately.
Newborn puppies cannot regulate their own body temperature, so guard against chilling by keeping the pups indoors, off cold floors, and in a warm, draft-free room. The puppies get their best heat from the mom dog, but if you have orphans your room temperature should be on the warm side for the first month. Indirect heat from warm water bottles or heat lamps may also be used. After 4 weeks, supplemental heat shouldn't be needed.
During the first week, a puppy’s normal temperature is between 95-98°F. The pup’s temperature increases gradually each day until four weeks of age, when it should be close to the normal temperature for an adult dog (100.5 to 102.5°F).
A large pet carrier lined with soft towels makes a nice bed for newborn puppies and their Mom. For orphans and pups with no litter mates, you might want to place a stuffed animal inside the carrier, to keep them company and provide some heat.
A mother dog’s milk provides everything newborn puppies need nutritionally during their first four weeks of life. Nursing also provides newborn puppies with antibodies to help prevent infections. If you’re caring for an orphaned pup, it’s important to consult with your veterinarian on the proper way to bottle-feed them. Your vet can also give you a recommendation on which commercial canine milk replacer to use.
In their first few weeks of life, puppies need to nurse (or be bottle fed) about every two hours. As they grow, the time between feedings gradually increases. At approximately four weeks of age, puppies can start to transition from nursing to eating solid food. Usually, weaning will be completed by approximately 6 to 8 weeks of age.
Because newborn puppies do not spontaneously eliminate waste on their own for the first month, the mother dog stimulates them through licking. If the mom is ill or absent, you'll need to help them with this. It may not be one of the most pleasant tasks of caring for a newborn puppy, but it is vital to their health. Using a warm, moist washcloth or piece of gauze, gently massage the puppy’s genital/anal area before and after their feedings. If you’re unsure about the proper technique, please consult with your vet.
As tempting as it is to hold and hug your adorable newborn puppies, it is best for them if you don’t do it more than a few times a day. And when you do, it should be for a very short time (a minute or two at most). Children should never be allowed to handle the puppies without adult supervision, and you should also take care not to upset the mom dog when handling them.
Speaking of the mom dog, it’s a good idea to have her examined by your vet within 24 hours after giving birth, to ensure that everything went well. Remember too, a nursing mom’s nutritional needs are greater than normal when feeding a litter of puppies. Be sure to keep plenty of fresh water nearby, and provide a high quality dog food such as CANIDAE, divided into three daily feedings. Your vet may also recommend a dietary supplement to assist with milk production.
This article is intended only as general guidance on caring for newborn puppies. It’s very important to consult your veterinarian with specific questions and any concerns you may have about your newborn pups and/or their mom.
Read more articles by Julia Williams
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Should You Adopt a Puppy or an Adult Dog?

By Ruthie Bently
You have decided to get a dog and a question comes up: which is better, a puppy or an adult dog? To find the answer, you should ask yourself some questions. What is your lifestyle like? What kind of sports and hobby activities do you like to participate in? Do you have the time to train a puppy? Remember that puppies require housebreaking, teething, vet visits, training and socializing. Would you rather have a companion that is grown up, theoretically better behaved, and possibly calmer?
Both puppies and adult dogs will need to be exercised every day; you need to make time in your schedule for at least 15 minutes of daily exercise along with at least two potty breaks for an adult dog and about six for a puppy.
Usually a puppy will have a higher activity level than an adult dog, but you will find certain breeds of dogs can have a high energy level even as adults (i.e., terriers, herding or working dogs). Adult dogs are usually easier to settle into a daily routine. As puppies grow their needs change, and they will be teething, which an adult dog is usually through with by the age of one. Though an adult dog is done teething, they are never done chewing, so you will have to purchase chewing toys to help keep them occupied when you aren’t able to play with them.
A puppy is a pliable being that you can train, so they learn the rules and regulations of your house as they grow. An adult dog may have habits you might need to change: for example counter surfing or tipping over the garbage container. You should realize that even a puppy can develop bad habits. If you have other pets in the household, either a puppy or adult dog can be integrated with a little patience and love. Nimber slept with one of the cats he lived with, and Skye had to learn to live with cats, chickens and geese, which she had never had any contact with. I have had two litters of kittens born on my bed, right under Skye’s nose, and their mothers consider Skye a 59-pound babysitter.
I have raised two puppies and had two adult dogs in my life. I adopted Katie as a puppy and she was not socialized enough, so she didn’t like any dog other than an American Staffordshire Terrier. Nimber was also raised as a puppy, and he was a phenomenal dog who bonded to me like glue. He loved everyone and later in life when he had to spend time at the vet’s during my work day, they would take him out and play with him because he was so friendly.
Smokey Bear was an adult when I adopted him and he was so laid back, I could sit him on my lap on his back and rub his tummy. He had no issues with people or other dogs and loved everybody; he even had a cat of his own, Munchkin, who would follow him around on the property and sleep on top of him when she needed a nap. Skye is my other adult dog adoptee, and she is constantly thinking up new games and things to get into because she is so smart, so I am constantly on my toes to try and outthink her.
Whichever you choose, puppy or adult dog, do your research and homework. This way you can seamlessly add a new canine companion to your household. Don’t forget to check your local shelter – there are many wonderful dogs waiting for homes there!
Read more articles by Ruthie Bently
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Oprah's gets a new baby
It's been a year since Oprah lost her cocker spaniel Sophie, and Oprah decided to do an O magazine photo shoot at PAWS Chicago, a no-kill shelter. During the shoot, sweet Sadie and her brothers captured Oprah's heart. "The dog chose me," Oprah says. "There were like six or seven dogs, and she was on my shoulder, nuzzling."
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