The Alaskan Malamute, a True Arctic Breed

By Ruthie Bently

The Alaskan Malamute’s origins go back 2,000 to 3,000 years, and their creation is credited to the Mahlemut Inuit tribe of northern Alaska. Most experts agree that the Malamute is one of the earliest dog breeds of North America. It is debated that they owe their existence to the breeding between domesticated Arctic wolves and early dogs owned by the tribe. It has not yet been scientifically confirmed, but the Alaskan Malamute might be the nearest living relative to the “First Dog” according to Mietje Germonpré, a paleontologist at the Royal Belgian Institute of Natural Sciences. He feels that 30,000 year old dog remains recently found closely resemble the Alaskan Malamute due to their size.

I find it easy to believe that this breed is descended from wolves, as they do tend to howl more than they bark. I have had the chance to hear wolves howling, and the similarity is interesting. An extended family member owns a Malamute with ice blue eyes (this is a disqualification in the confirmation ring). When she looks at you, you get the impression that she is looking into your soul.

The Malamute was recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1935. An adult male may range in height from 24 to 26 inches at the withers and weigh between 80 to 95 pounds. An adult female may range in height from 22 to 24 inches and weigh between 70 to 85 pounds. They have a life expectancy of twelve to fifteen years. A Malamute is a large, deep-chested breed and is prone to hip dysplasia, cataracts and bloat. It is a member of the AKC’s working group and is a good example of the group.

Malamutes have a long, dense double coat of hair, well suited to the northern climes and cold weather. If you live in a state like Arizona, you might want to think twice before getting a Malamute. They blow coat profusely in the spring and the fall, and brushing several times a week outside is suggested. The undercoat comes out in clumps. Coat colors can be solid white, black and white, sable and white, red and white, blue and white, or gray and white.

The early Mahlemuts used Malamutes (their only mode of transportation) for pulling travel sleds, hauling sleds loaded with supplies and food, and for hunting polar bears. Malamutes were highly prized for their willingness to work and their endurance and strength. They are still used for hauling freight over long distances and moving heavy objects.

Highly athletic dogs, Malamutes are frequently used for skijoring, bikejoring, canicross (the sport of cross-country running while hitched to a dog), agility, backpacking, carting, dog sledding, jogging, mushing, packing, search and rescue, and weight pulling. In long distance races, they are slower and heavier than their smaller cousin, the Siberian Husky.

As sled dogs, Malamutes are suited more for hauling and transport due to their accomplished sense of smell, courageous tenacity and sense of direction. These traits make them an invaluable addition to any expedition. Malamutes were used in 1896 during the gold rush in the Klondike. They were used frequently in Admiral Byrd’s expeditions to the South Pole and were used during World War II for search and rescue in Greenland, as well as being immortalized in books written by Rudyard Kipling and Jack London. The Alaskan Malamute was voted as the state dog of Alaska in 2010.

Malamutes need daily exercise. They like to wander, and a stout fenced yard or a dog run is suggested. If you build a dog run, the fence should be buried several inches below ground, as they will dig their way out. They make a good family pet, but if there are smaller household pets, care should be taken due to the Malamute’s strong prey drive. Due to their size, care should be taken when they are around small children, as they may knock them over. Obedience training is strongly suggested, and Malamutes need to be properly socialized with other dogs and humans. This breed needs an owner who is a strong alpha; otherwise they may be unruly and try to rule the roost. 

If you live in a northern climate, love exercise and winter sports, and don’t mind cleaning up dog hair, this affectionate, versatile arctic dog may be the right one for you.

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Breed Profile: American Indian Dog

By Ruthie Bently

The American Indian Dog history goes back 30,000 years in both North and South America. They were used by Native American tribes for herding, tracking, corralling bison, running down deer, hunting bear and guarding, as well as pack animals for pulling the travois when a family unit migrated from place to place. Their hair was used for weaving to make garments and blankets. They also kept their owners warm on very cold nights. The breed was developed and strengthened by the breeding of dogs that were traded between tribes of all the Nations from Alaska down into south America by the Plains Indians.

The American Indian Dog is a very intelligent breed. They need a firm, steady owner who is able to be the pack leader so there are no behavior problems. They have strong instincts and need to be socialized well. American Indian Dogs are very conscious of their territory and will bond very strongly to their family members. They are able to adjust to many environments and make exceptional watchdogs of both family and the household. They are cautious and alert around strangers.

American Indian Dogs are versatile at many jobs, and working is one of their best qualities. They are good at agility, racing, disc dog competitions, as babysitters, in law enforcement, rescue and as certified therapy and certified service dogs.

Adult males range in size from eighteen to twenty inches and weigh thirty-five to sixty pounds. Females range in size from seventeen to nineteen inches and weigh between thirty and forty-five pounds. They need daily exercise and do well with a long walk. They prefer lots of space but will adjust if given enough exercise and proper training. Their life expectancy is between fourteen and eighteen years. They are a very clean dog; they don’t tend to have much odor and they shed once in the spring.

While the American Indian Dog is not recognized by the American Kennel Club, they are recognized by the American Indian Dog registry (AIDR), the International Indian Dog Owners and Breeders Association (IIDOBA), the Dog Registry of America, Inc. (DRA) and the International Progressive Dog Breeders Alliance (IPDBA).

If you are interested in an American Indian Dog, make sure you do your homework. There are unscrupulous breeders who are passing off wolf and coyote hybrids as Native American Indian Dogs and these are not the same breed. For more information, check the American Indian Dog website or the International Indian Dog Owners and Breeders Association.

Photos courtesy of Song Dog Kennels

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Breed Profile: Shiba Inu, the Brushwood Dog

By Ruthie Bently

The Shiba Inu is an ancient breed that originated on the island of Japan and is a descendant of the primitive dogs of the ancient Japanese people. The breed can trace its roots back to the third century B.C, although it was not officially named until the 1920s. They are Japan’s number one companion dog.

The Shiba Inu is a member of the AKC’s Non-Sporting group, which is interesting when you consider they were originally used for hunting, primarily to flush birds and small game. They were also used for hunting bear and boar, due to their superior senses and ability to traverse steep hills and mountainous regions that were inaccessible to people. According to Merriam Webster’s online dictionary, Shiba means brushwood and Inu means dog. Some Shiba Inus’ coat color is the same reddish color of these trees, hence the nickname brushwood dog.

The Shiba Inu is the smallest of the Japanese dog breeds, and through the Japanese Cultural Properties Act, they were declared a natural product of Japan in 1936. World War II and outbreaks of rabies and distemper brought the breed to the brink of extinction. Dogs from the three remaining types of Shibas were interbred to repopulate the breed. 

The Shiba Inu was first brought to the United States in 1954 by a military family. The first litter born in the United States was from a breeding by a pair owned by Julia Cadwell. The Shiba Inu was recognized by the AKC in 1993, and is the AKC’s 136th breed. 

Shibas are fastidious dogs, and many tend to avoid puddles. They are a confident breed and are fearless, courageous, brave and alert. They are fairly easy to housebreak and should be well socialized as puppies because they can be reserved with strangers. They need a firm hand and need to know their owner is the alpha of the pack, or they can become stubborn and will try to rule the roost.

They bond well with their family members and can be great with children, cats and other dogs. However, they should not be left alone with smaller pets due to their natural hunting instinct. Since their instinct to chase is strong, caution should be taken when walking them off leash. They don’t bark much, and are good travelers. They need daily exercise to keep them from misbehaving or acting out. A Shiba Inu can live in an apartment, but needs sufficient exercise. They do best in a moderately sized yard. As they regard themselves as a member of the family, they are not happy if left outside alone.

An adult male Shiba Inu ranges in size from fourteen to sixteen inches tall and weighs between eighteen and twenty-five pounds. Females range from thirteen to fifteen inches tall and weigh between fifteen and twenty pounds. The breed can be prone to patellar luxation (slipped kneecap), PRA (progressive retinal atrophy) and hip dysplasia. The life expectancy of a Shiba Inu is between twelve and fifteen years of age.

The Shiba has a short haired coat which is easy to groom. They do well with several brushings a week and do blow coat during shedding season. Their coat has a natural waterproofing and they should only be bathed when necessary so it is not removed. If you are looking for a happy, friendly dog for your family or just a walking companion with great endurance, the Shiba Inu may be right up your alley.

Top photo: "Sumo," 8-week old Shiba Inu puppy, by Mrs. L. Selle
Bottom photo: by Roberto Vasarri

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What are Earthdog Tests?

By Ruthie Bently

The most cited definition of an earth dog is “a dog that will dig in the earth, or enter holes of foxes, etc.” Earth dogs were originally used for hunting food for the table or vermin, and were bred to track badger, otter, weasels and other quarry to their den. At an Earthdog Test or Den Trial, a dog is competing against themselves and their own natural ability to hunt when confronted by an underground hunting location.

Earthdog is a newer sport based on an old practice. There are several dog breeds that have been used for many years for this purpose. It is now a recognized competition by the American Kennel Club (AKC), the Canadian Kennel Club (CKC) and the American Working Terrier Association (AWTA). Called both “Earthdog Tests” and “Earthdog Den Trials,” their purpose is the same – to test your dog’s natural instinct and trained ability to work and hunt a quarry after they have “gone to ground.”

The CKC allows eligible dogs to be born both inside and outside Canada, as long as they meet required criteria. The CKC recognizes a Certificate of Gameness earned at an AWTA event and it can be recorded on a dog’s CKC pedigree.

The American Working Terrier Association, founded in 1971, believes that terriers and dachshunds should have the ability to be working dogs and used for their original purpose. Their goal is to encourage breeders to retain certain terrier instincts that each recognized breed is known for. A dog can earn a “Certificate of Gameness” if they score 100% in an open class.

To compete at an American Kennel Club Earthdog Test, a dog must be at least six months old, registered with the AKC, or be a purebred assigned an ILP (Indefinite Listing Privilege) number. A dog entered in an AKC Earthdog Test may be spayed or neutered. While the AKC, AWTA and CKC recognize several breeds eligible to compete in Earthdog Tests, each organization’s rules and regulations are different. You should check with each organization to determine your dog’s eligibility.  

A dog’s performance is timed from when they are released by their handler, and once the dog reaches the quarry they must stay there for a pre-set time. A dog’s time and their performance are rated by a panel of judges, who then award the dog a score.

Earthdog Tests are based on pre-determined criteria, and each certification contains more extensive testing. The AKC has five certifications a dog can earn in Earthdog. They are: Introduction to Quarry, Junior Earthdog, Senior Earthdog and Master Earthdog. The definitions for these certifications and certificates for the CKC and the AWTA are available on their websites.

Each dog is rated on how long it takes them to follow a scent line and find the opening of the tunnel, and how long it takes to make their way into and traverse the tunnel and reach the quarry. A dog must be able to follow the quarry’s scent down a man-made underground tunnel, and must “work” the quarry. Working the quarry can include digging, scratching, pawing, barking and staring. The encounter is controlled and the protected live quarry is not harmed.

Does your dog love to dig holes in your yard for fun and exercise? If you’d like to help them burn off some of that extra energy, you may want to attend an Earthdog Test to see if it’s a sport you would like to compete in with your dog.

Photo by Tup Wanders

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What Causes Sterility in Dogs?

By Ruthie Bently

Not every dog is capable of creating progeny to leave behind. Either the male or female can be sterile. What causes a dog to be sterile or to become sterile? Canine sterility can be caused by a myriad of things. Some causes of canine infertility can happen to either sex, and some are gender specific.

A female dog comes into heat twice a year for approximately three weeks. A first heat can occur between the age of six weeks and fifteen months, depending on the dog’s breed. Normal heat cycles occur at six month intervals, but can occur from five to eight months apart. If there is more than one female dog in a household, one is dominant and their heat cycle can control the cycles of the other females in the household. Many professionals suggest waiting until a female is over two or has had several heats, as she may not be able to carry the puppies to term. A male dog doesn’t come into “season” like a female, but if he is sexually mature he is capable of fathering puppies.

There are several reasons a female dog might be sterile – she may be too young to have a heat cycle, or it may have irregularities. If her heat cycles are too close together, a female may be sterile. A gynecological exam enables you to make sure your dog is healthy to breed.

A male dog may suffer from low sperm production count, which is known as azoospermia. The dog may not be old enough to produce enough sperm. They may have had an infection that affected their ability to produce sperm. They may just need more time. Your veterinarian can perform a test to determine how much sperm is being produced. A dog’s sexual organs may be under developed or may not have developed properly. He may suffer from hyposexuality and not be attracted to the female. A male dog can also suffer from orchitis, which is an inflammation of the testicles. If not treated in a timely manner, it can lead to sterility.

The food your dog eats may not supply the nutrition they need to be able to reproduce properly. By feeding a premium quality dog food like CANIDAE ALS, which is nutritionally complete for all life stages of your dog, you can prepare your female so she will be healthy if she is to be bred, or your male so he has the stamina he will need. You should also see fewer problems with your female conceiving puppies. Your female should have fewer problems with her pregnancy and after she has whelped the puppies. 

Either gender of dog may be too immature or inexperienced. There may be psychological issues due to previous attempts to mate, or the timing could just be bad. Either dog may be tired, stressed or under the weather. There are some problems that may be caused by health concerns. They may have had an infection that has rendered them sterile (Brucellosis). A dog may have hypothyroidism, which is a lack of the hormone the thyroid gland secretes. The thyroid gland is a member of the adrenal system, which controls the reproductive systems of an organism. Your veterinarian can perform a blood test to determine if thyroid replacement medication is indicated.

If you are not ready to breed your female, there are options. If you choose not to breed your female, you can have her spayed. You will not have to worry about heat cycles, or guarding her against the male dogs in the neighborhood that may come to visit her. If you are going to breed your dog, but want the option to control when and what dog, there is hormonal birth control available for dogs. It comes in an injectable form that is administered every six months. It is also available in a pill form that is administered just before a female comes into heat.

No matter what causes a dog to be sterile, before following any course of action a responsible pet owner should speak with their veterinarian to discuss the best health options for their dog.

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How to Boost Your Dog’s Immune System

By Ruthie Bently

The immune system is one of the most important functions of any organism, including dogs. An immune system is a multi-faceted defense system against sickness. It enables a dog’s body to differentiate between germs, foreign substances and itself. When functioning properly, the immune system fights fungal infections, bacterial infections and illnesses, offers parasite protection, helps eliminate toxins from the body, and kills viruses. There are several ways to boost your dog’s immune system to help keep them healthy.

The immune system is adept at recognizing threats, and uses many layers to fight any infection that may present itself. The immune system is comprised of multiple cellular warriors, capable of recognizing pathogens that may attack. The immune system recognizes these pathogens by the proteins and chemicals they release. As a pathogen is recognized it is attacked, killed and consumed by the cells of the immune system. The immune system is capable of creating a memory of the pathogen to thwart a reinfection attempt.

If a pathogen is reencountered, the immune system recognizes its chemical makeup, which causes the immune system to create antibodies to attack the invading infection. Sometimes the infection succeeds in attacking the body’s cells internally. The cells that are attacked are able to alert the immune system by displaying a protein signature of the infection. Another group of cells responsible as a secondary line of defense go into action by killing the infected cells and notifying additional immune cells that there is an infection in the organism, which kills the invading cells.  

Feeding your dog a premium quality food like CANIDAE Grain Free ALS or CANIDAE All Life Stages is very important for a properly functioning immune system. Both formulas fulfill a dog’s daily food requirements and supply your dog with important nutrients, vitamins and minerals that help their immune system. If you don’t recognize some of the ingredients on your pet food label, learn what the terms on your dog food bag mean.

Getting daily exercise is one of the cornerstones for a good immune system. A daily walk or daily outside play with a ball or favorite activity stimulates a dog’s lymphatic system which is part of the immune system. Daily exercise goes a long way toward keeping your dog’s mental attitude positive, and enables the immune system to work properly. It calms your dog and helps reduce stress that may affect their immune system. Attempt to minimize anything that triggers your dog’s stress. Soothe your dog during situations that may be stressful to them (i.e. vet visits, car traveling, thunderstorms). Alternative therapies like massage or Reiki can help your dog relax, which cuts their stress level and assists the immune system function properly.

Fresh, clean water is another important part of a healthy immune system. Water hydrates your dog and enables their body to flush out unhealthy toxins. Other things you can do to assist your dog’s immune system and help them stay healthy include annual vet visits and taking them in to the vet if they become ill. 

If a dog’s immune system is not functioning properly it can cause health issues (some chronic) throughout their whole body. If a dog contracts an auto-immune disease, their immune function can be affected. A dog can suffer chronic stress caused by any form of trauma (cancer or other disease, improper diet, or abuse) and this can cause an immune system dysfunction.  It’s been recently found that a dog’s poor diet can cause a decreased immunity in its puppies, even if they are fed a nutritional diet. Other issues a dog with an immune system dysfunction can be vulnerable to are: allergies, arthritis, degenerative and reproductive disorders, demodectic mange, ear infections, eczema, and yeast infections. 

So, feed your dog the most natural food you can. Make sure it’s nutritionally balanced and provides adequate vitamins and minerals as well as omega fatty acids and antioxidants. Provide fresh water and exercise your dog daily. Take your dog to the veterinarian annually. Minimize use of chemicals around your dog; using them too often may lead to immune system dysfunction. By utilizing these tips, you can help boost your dog’s immune system, maintain its proper function and help your dog live a long, happy and healthy life.

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Can Dogs Get Distemper if They’ve Been Vaccinated?

By Ruthie Bently

Pet owners are required to get their cats and dogs vaccinated against the rabies disease, and there are other vaccinations our pets get depending on their owner’s preference and veterinarian’s recommendations. The distemper vaccination is not a required vaccination in the United States, but it is strongly advised by veterinarians because distemper can be fatal in certain cases.

A dog can contract distemper from a vaccination and this is known as vaccinial distemper; it is exceedingly rare but is possible. I spoke with my vet, and in his 32 years of practice he has never seen a dog contract distemper from a vaccination. If a dog contracts distemper from an inoculation, it is a situation where the dog’s immune system has already been severely compromised by something else.

The distemper virus is related to measles in humans, and in days gone by they used human measles vaccine to immunize puppies. A dog contracts distemper by coming in contact with an infected dog’s bodily secretions such as drool, discharge from a sneeze or cough, even urine; it is introduced to the body through the mouth or nose. In places of the world where vaccines are not commonly used, distemper can affect any age dog.

The dogs that are most at risk for distemper are usually puppies with an incomplete series of vaccinations or a dog with a questionable vaccination record (i.e. a rescued dog, feral dog, puppy mill dog). A puppy can receive some immunity through the colostrum in its mother’s milk, but this immunity can wear off by the age of 16 weeks if they have not been vaccinated. A dog that contracts distemper may have been housed with rescue dogs that may not have been vaccinated for distemper.

Distemper attacks the mucous membranes of an animal first and begins with the respiratory tract. Symptoms seen can include mucous-like discharge from the nose and eyes, poor appetite, fever, coughing and pneumonia. Then it moves on to the intestinal tract and can cause diarrhea and vomiting. From here it attacks the central nervous system and these symptoms include limb weakness, tics, imbalance, tremors and seizures. In advanced cases of distemper it attacks the brain and causes encephalitis. In extreme cases it causes death. While distemper is not curable, some pets may recover.

Many vets use a modified live virus (MLV) vaccination called DHPP, a combination vaccine that vaccinates for distemper, parvovirus, hepatitis and parainfluenza. A modified live virus is less expensive, and you may only need one dose for it to be effective. The downside of a modified live virus is that it can become active and cause a health issue called neurodistemper. This can occur between ten and twenty one days after a modified live vaccine for distemper is administered. So, yes, a dog vaccinated for distemper can under certain conditions contract distemper, but as previously mentioned it is usually due to an immune deficiency already in a dog’s system.

There is another form of the distemper vaccine called a recombinant format, where a harmless live virus is used as a carrier for the part of the distemper virus that stimulates the immune system’s response. The advantage of using a recombinant form of the distemper vaccination is that no distemper or distemper encephalitis will occur from vaccination.

Distemper is such a virulent virus that it can run through a species population very rapidly. Before you consider skipping your dog’s distemper vaccination, you should be aware there is NO cure for distemper at this time. Dogs cannot get distemper from cats, and cats cannot get distemper from dogs, as they are two different diseases. However, dogs can get distemper from many wild canid carnivores: badgers, ferrets, raccoons, foxes, feral dogs, wolves, coyotes, mink and skunks. As a responsible pet owner, do you really want to take the chance of not vaccinating your dog and having them contract distemper?

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How to Help a Cat with Feline Arthritis

By Ruthie Bently

As cats age they may get feline osteoarthritis, also known as feline or cat arthritis. A cat that is overweight can develop osteoarthritis. Feline osteoarthritis can be difficult to diagnose as a cat’s instinct leads them to attempt to hide their infirmity. (Any signs of weakness can lead to a lion’s place in a pride being compromised.) Osteoarthritis affects the cartilage and soft tissue around the joints. Cartilage is the natural shock absorber of an organism, and is made of protein. It’s like an airbag for your joints. Arthritis causes cartilage to deteriorate from around the joints. If left untreated, the bones can begin to rub against each other, and bone thickening or bone spurs may result. The symptoms are varied and may not be something you might associate to arthritis. While feline arthritis is not curable, it is manageable and you may be able to prevent it in your cat.

Some cats slow down as they age. If your cat isn’t one of those but they are exhibiting some strange behaviors and you are concerned there may be something wrong, here are some of the symptoms of osteoarthritis. A cat may sleep more often and pick lower places to sleep. They may not cover leavings in the litter box, and if the box is too tall for them to easily climb into they may have an accident outside the litter box. Your cat may not want to jump up to high vantage points like they used to. Their leg muscles may look thinner or less filled out than they used to; this is called muscle wasting.

Was your cat an extrovert at family gatherings until recently? Do they shy away from your other pets or family members? If your cat’s appetite has changed, be aware that cats don’t eat when they don’t feel good. If they would rather be a couch potato all day, your cat may have feline arthritis.

By giving your kitty a premium quality natural cat food like FELIDAE®, and making sure they get daily exercise with a toy to chase or a lively game of fetch, you can lessen their chance of getting osteoarthritis later in life. If your cat is overweight, you should speak with your veterinarian about the proper way to help them lose weight healthily. Try using a shorter litter box and put a small rug or litter mat under the box to catch any accidents that may happen. Lowering food and water bowls for easier access will help keep your cat’s appetite up and may reduce muscle wasting. Using a thick waffle foam bed that will keep your cat off the cold floor, a bed with a back to block drafts, or using a heated bed or pet-approved heating pad under their bed can ease any aches and pains associated with feline osteoarthritis.

If you visit a holistic practitioner, ask them what methods of alternative treatments have worked for cats with osteoarthritis. See my article on treating canine arthritis for a list of alternative therapies to consider, such as massage, acupuncture and laser therapy. Your veterinarian may prescribe NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs). They help reduce joint swelling, increase mobility and relieve pain, but should not be used unless prescribed by your veterinarian. Surgery may be suggested depending on the severity of the osteoarthritis. Whatever course you choose, be sure to consult with your veterinarian prior to treatment.

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Tips for Living with a Blind Dog

By Ruthie Bently

When a person loses their sight, there are many avenues of assistance. But what do you do when it is your dog? Making some simple changes to your house can help your blind dog adjust easier. Experts suggest not moving furniture or rugs, as it can make it more difficult for your blind dog to maneuver around the home. Evaluate each room from your dog’s height and sight level for hidden dangers. Are there any cords dangling in the way that could trip up your dog? Check for sharp corners or objects at a level your dog may run into, and move or pad them to lessen the effect of an accident. To help a blind dog acclimate faster, walk them around the house and re-introduce them to their favorite rooms, areas for sleeping and eating, and anywhere else they will spend time.

When approaching your blind dog, talk to them softly so they don’t get startled. Do not approach your dog if they are sleeping or from behind, as this may frighten them. You can provide encouragement to your dog by talking to them often. If your blind dog has obedience training, a consistent use of their regular basic commands gives them normality.

Using textured floor runners for a path through the rooms your blind dog spends the most time in can help them find their way using their feet. For example, if they sleep in the kitchen, use a floor runner to go from their crate or bed to the outside door they use most often. Don’t change where you feed or water them, and don’t carry them to their food or up stairs, as this can confuse them. If you have stairs, think about installing a gate at the top to prevent tumbles. Try to keep the floors clear of any obstacles that may hinder your blind dog’s movement through the rooms.

Show your dog where the door to the outside is, and remind them how to get outside. Teach them to use a scratch pad or to ring a bell, and hang one by each door your dog leaves or enters the house from. Installing a pet door allows your dog to let themselves out if you are not available. However, you should only install a pet door if it exits to an enclosed area that is safe for your dog (e.g., fenced yard, dog kennel).

Using a harness and a shorter leash when walking gives you more control over your blind dog when outside your home. A shorter lead also allows you to keep your dog closer to you in situations that may be new or strange to them. Get your dog a safety vest that says “I can’t see” or some other visible identification to alert people that your dog is blind.

If you have other pets in the house, hanging bells from their collars lets your blind dog know they are present. Let visitors know your dog is blind and that they should be careful. Allow your dog to sniff the hand of your visitor prior to petting. If you live with two dogs, you may notice your blind dog following the lead of your sighted dog. Your sighted dog may respond to barks from your blind dog; he’s just checking up on him. You may also find that your blind dog barks more often. Each bark sound has a different meaning which you’ll eventually learn to understand, such as “I’m hungry,” “I have to go out” or “where are you?”

Your dog may have lost their sight, but they might still retain some of the independent ways they grew up with. Like humans, a dog’s other senses pick up the slack when they lose one. A dog’s ancestral instinct is an advantage when coping with blindness. A blind dog begins to use their sense of smell more to find that bone they “buried” under the couch, and it tells them when you’re preparing their dinner. A blind dog’s sense of hearing lets them know a family member has returned home and needs to be greeted. They use their sense of touch while learning the world they inhabit in a different manner.

Having patience, being consistent and loving, and giving lots of positive encouragement can help both you and your blind dog look at this new chapter like an adventure. 

Photo by Richard Bartz, Munich

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What Causes a Dog to Snore?

By Ruthie Bently

Do you live with a snorer? No, I’m not talking about the two legged variety that may live with you, but that adorable four-legged furry version. Did you know that an estimated 21% of all dogs snore? (By contrast, only 7% of our feline friends snore). Since many of us have at some time let our dogs sleep with us, we’ve had to deal with this snoring problem or banish them from our bedroom. What causes a dog to snore – and how do you stop it?

There are several reasons that might cause your dog to snore, including environmental and physical. Some dogs are born with excess tissue around their neck and throat; this tissue can interfere with a dog’s breathing under certain circumstances. If your dog is overweight, they may also be carrying extra skin and body tissue around their neck. This extra body weight can cause the upper airway to close. Congestion in a dog’s nasal passages can also cause snoring.

Congestion can be caused by allergies, a cold, pneumonia, or environmental factors like secondhand smoke or smog. Even household cleaners and air fresheners may cause allergies. Secondhand smoke is an irritant to a dog’s respiratory system and can lead to snoring problems. If your dog has or is prone to allergies, some allergens can cause the air passages to narrow, which results in snoring. Anything that causes a dog’s airway to constrict or can obstruct it can lead to snoring.

Some breeds of dogs are more apt to snore than others. Short-nosed (flat faced) dogs can have breathing issues which can contribute to snoring problems. Due to the shortness of their breathing passages, these dogs are more susceptible to blockages. Some of these breeds include: American Bulldog, Bloodhound, Boston Terrier, Boxer, Brussels Griffon, Bullmastiff, Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, Chow Chow, English Bulldog, English Mastiff, English Toy Spaniel, French Bulldog, Japanese Spaniel, Lhasa Apso, Pekinese, Pug, Puggle, Saint Bernard, Shar Pei, Shih Tzu, and some mixed breeds.

A dog that is on tranquilizers, muscle relaxers or pain killers may snore. A dog’s muscles relax to the point that they may press on and block the airways, causing an obstruction and in turn snoring. Even the way your dog lays when they are sleeping can contribute to whether or not they snore. Dogs that sleep on their backs are more apt to snore than those that sleep on their stomachs. If you think your dog’s snoring is due to a medication they are taking, speak to your vet about what they are on and any possible side effects. Consider getting a dog bed that encourages them to curl up, which changes their sleeping position and may alleviate the snoring.

Does your dog have allergies? A hypo-allergenic washable bed can help with allergens inside the house. Changing or washing the furnace filters will help cut down on airborne allergens. Walk your dog when the pollen and mold counts and air pollution are low. If your dog is overweight, talk to your veterinarian about a weight reduction program. Losing the extra weight around a dog’s neck can alleviate snoring.

I have lived with several breeds of dogs over the years, and most of them snored at one time or another. Some snored because of the position they slept in (on their backs with their mouth open). Some snored because of the shortness of their noses. We had Boxers that “wuffled” in their sleep, as if they were barking in snores. We had an English Bulldog, Happy, that in my whimsical child’s mind sounded like a musical instrument: long whistling snores, very deep in pitch and as long as a concerto. If you live with a four-legged snorer, it’s always a good idea to consult with your veterinarian. They can evaluate your dog and help you determine the best solution to the snoring.

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Saluki, the Royal Dog of Egypt

By Ruthie Bently

The Saluki is one of the oldest known dog breeds in the world, named for the ancient southern Arabian city of Saluq, which no longer exists. The breed is known as the “Royal Dog of Egypt,” since the nobility were the only people allowed to own them. Their mummified remains have been found in the tombs of pharaohs as well as many tombs of the Upper Nile, and there are several carvings of King Tutankhamen with his favored Salukis. Some Saluki likenesses have been dated back to 2100 B.C. More recently excavated tombs dating between 7000 and 6000 B.C. Sumaria also contain Saluki carvings. The Saluki is known by other names as well: the Arabian Hound, Persian Sighthound, Gazelle Hound, Persian Greyhound, and the Tanji.

The Saluki is native to eastern Turkestan to Turkey, though due to the nomadic existence of their owners they ranged from the Caspian Sea to the Sahara desert. Historians believe they are related to the Afghan Hound and date back to Alexander the Great’s invasion of India in 329 B.C. Considered a sacred gift from Allah, they were only offered as gifts and never sold. Bedouin tribes regarded a Saluki with a white forehead patch as special, and it was believed that they wore “the kiss of Allah.”

The Saluki is a member of the Hound group; they were recognized by the AKC in 1929. Salukis may be shown in two varieties: smooth or coated (with leg feathers). Allowable colors are black and tan, grizzle and tan, golden, tricolor, white, red, fawn and cream. Males weigh between 29 and 66 pounds and are between 23 and 28 inches tall at the withers, with females being slightly smaller. Health problems may include eye ailments and cancer, and they are susceptible to sunburn. Their life expectancy is between ten and twelve years.

The first Salukis imported into England in 1840 were known as Persian Greyhounds. After seeing Salukis while on a tour of the Nile, the Honorable Florence Amherst imported the first breeding pair of Salukis from Arabia, which came from the Transjordanian kennels of Prince Abdulla. She tried unsuccessfully to improve the popularity of the Saluki for almost thirty years, and got assistance from Brigadier General Frederick Lance and his wife Gladys, who brought home two Syrian Salukis from Sarona, Palestine where he had been stationed. The Lances’ Saluki “Sarona Kelb” significantly influenced the Saluki breed. 

Salukis are equally at home in both the show ring and at lure coursing events, and have also been used as racing dogs. They are avid sight hunters and their stamina and tenacity belie their fragile appearance. Salukis can run at 40 mph in short bursts, and are not allowed off lead in some countries. They are best known for hunting gazelle due to their ability and speed over rough terrain, and they have been used to hunt hare, jackal and fox. Due to their strong hunting instincts, they may injure or kill other small pets in the home, though they may get along with cats.

Salukis do best in a fenced yard with some space to run. They should not be let off lead due to their tendency to chase what they see; once a Saluki sights prey they will give chase and will ignore commands to return. They need the equivalent of a five mile walk or run daily and since they love to run, will happily jog alongside a bike. Salukis are not recommended for apartments.

A Saluki needs a firm hand during training and does best with patience, compassion and consistency rather than severe methods. They make an obedient dog, are independent and can become distracted from time to time. They are affectionate and may bond to one family member; multiple Salukis in a household do well together. If you would like to live with a dog of truly royal lineage and love exercising, the Saluki may be right up your alley. 

Picture courtesy of Cori Solomon.

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Canine Liver Disease: Causes and Symptoms

By Ruthie Bently

Canine liver disease is the fifth leading cause of death for dogs, and it’s estimated that three percent of all diseases veterinarians see are connected to the liver.

Canine liver disease has many causes, such as physiological, physical and chemical. It can be called “prior” or “after” liver disease. An example of “prior” liver disease would be a cancer; an example of “after” liver disease is a blocked bile duct.

The liver is the second largest organ in a dog’s body (after the skin) and is the workhorse of their body. It’s a specialized manufacturing and pollution control center, and is what makes the body function properly. The liver processes food eaten, manufactures the necessary building blocks, detoxifies and recycles the blood, and gets rid of the waste created. Since the liver is connected so intricately to the biochemistry of an organism, it can make diagnosing canine liver disease difficult. Liver disease can affect many body functions and in turn the liver can be affected by many other organs and systems of the body.

If not too far advanced, the symptoms and disease may sometimes be reversed due to the liver’s ability to completely regenerate. However, the disease must be managed properly to allow this to happen. A dog’s liver can be damaged up to 80% and still function normally due to its reserve capacity; because of this capability, the disease may be too far advanced and untreatable by the time it’s diagnosed. The largest challenge facing veterinarians diagnosing canine liver disease is that the symptoms are not predictable and may not be specific. Due to the paradoxical attributes of the liver, diagnosing and treating the disease can be exceedingly difficult.

Canine liver disease has a myriad of causes, and what follows is only a partial list. Any number of traumas to a dog may result in liver disease: a hernia to the diaphragm, being hit by a car, a bruise or heatstroke. A diet that’s too high in fats can affect the liver; females are more prone to this than males. A dog with chronic infections (i.e. tooth problems) can contract liver disease. Fungal and bacterial infections can cause liver disease, as can parasites like heartworms and roundworms.

Certain drugs can cause side effects that result in liver disease, including acetaminophen, anabolic steroids, antibiotics, anesthetics, ASA, chemotherapy drugs, cortisone, corticosteroids, glucocorticoids, certain parasiticides given over extended periods, phenylbutazone and Phenobarbital.

Contact with toxins from pesticides, herbicides, insecticides, bleach, household cleaners and paint chips that may contain lead can all cause liver disease. Your dog could contract hepatitis, which is an inflammation of the liver. Cancer can overwhelm a dog’s system or metastasize directly to the liver itself and lead to issues.

Certain dog breeds are hereditarily prone to copper storage disease (a.k.a. canine copper hepatotoxicosis), a form of liver disease. An exaggerated amount of copper accumulates in their liver and if left untreated can be fatal. There’s also a chance of these breeds developing cirrhosis or chronic hepatitis.

There are numerous symptoms for canine liver disease. Jaundice is the most recognizable; a tint from yellow to orange will appear. It is most easily seen in the sclera (white) of the eye, but is also visible in the gums and skin of an affected dog. You may see more frequent urination which may also be tinged between lemon yellow and bright orange. Your dog may be thirstier or have an unquenchable thirst. Their abdomen may look distended and be uncomfortable to the touch. They may have a lack of appetite, chronic weight loss, recurring gastrointestinal issues or bloody vomiting. Their feces may be yellow or orange, a paler color than normal, or they may have bloody diarrhea with the above characteristics. You may observe strange behavior, circling, lethargy, no interest in playing or walks, or accelerating depression.

If your dog is diagnosed with canine liver disease, you should remove any toxic agents that could be involved. This includes any drugs that may harm the liver further.  If your dog is on medications with sodium or potassium, your vet may change or decrease those medications to eliminate the intake and retention of those minerals. If your dog is on Phenobarbital for seizure management, your vet may change their medication to decrease damage it may cause. Your vet may suggest distilled water to lessen the effect of minerals in the water. They may also put your dog on a special diet or prescribe a diuretic to control water retention. Your vet may suggest rest and confinement which will allow the body to focus needed resources on the healing process. If caught early and the liver isn’t too compromised the condition is reversible. Being alert to symptoms of canine liver disease, a responsible pet owner can save their dog’s life.

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Can Dogs Be Trained to Sniff Out Insects?

By Ruthie Bently

Dogs are used for many things these days that assist us. Dogs are featured on the news apprehending criminals, sniffing for bombs and contraband at airports, and searching for people after disasters. Now those impressive nasal powers are being put to a new use.

Some search and rescue (SAR) dogs are augmenting their careers in a new direction. They are being trained to sniff out household pests such as bedbugs and termites, and detrimental insects on crops.

We humans are nasally challenged when compared with our canine companions. Dogs have approximately two hundred million scent receptors to a human’s mere five million. Not to mention those cute wrinkles around a dog’s face and head that enable them to pull in the scents they smell by catching them on the wind as they pass by. A dog’s nose is sensitive enough to pull in a scent as small as a few parts per billion. Imagine how many odors must assault your dog’s nose every time they take a walk. 

A dog trained in human search and rescue detects a human’s scent, which can be comprised of respiratory gasses, gasses due to bacterial action on our skin, evaporated sweat, or skin cells that carry our scent as they drop off us. So it only makes sense that dogs would be able to scent out insects. Insects give off pheromones to attract a mate or leave a message for a colony. They can leave a urea trail as well from the excrement they deposit.

While researching this article I was able to speak with Shay Cook. Shay is a partner and trainer for Insect Detection Dogs, LLC and she explained the basics to me. Shay and her partner, Caroline Upton, were both in search and rescue when they met. They developed a successful method of using a dog’s nose to detect vine mealybugs (VMB). Vine mealybugs have been proven as a threat to grape crops and their host range includes citrus, apple, date palm, avocado and fig crops as well. Shay and I spoke about using insect detection dogs for other insect applications and she is working with several institutes to expand the program to other crop pests.

To be a good insect detection candidate, a dog should have a strong prey drive, want to work, and they should have a good nose. You can begin evaluating a dog for insect detection at the tender age of eight weeks old and training begins soon after. A dog imprinting on their handler is very important for any successful partnership. Teaching beginning agility will not go amiss for a dog involved in any kind of search and rescue, because you may find yourself out in the middle of the woods. A dog looking for insects in a vineyard cannot be distracted by people, hoses, sprinklers, or even the supports that hold up the vines. 

But how do they teach the dogs to search for insects?  Some trainers use pheromone bait, others use dead insects. If you’re searching for an insect feeding on crops, a dead insect won’t help much; you’re looking for the signature of a live one. It isn’t hard to get live specimens, if the pest is considered common and not on a list of species banned by the Department of Agriculture. If the insect is on a dangerous pest list the trainer works with an entomologist to get a sample. They (and their dog) may even go out in the field to see (and smell) the insect in its natural habitat.

It is more conducive for a dog that’s being used to detect insects to work during the cooler hours of the day. The scent is still close to the ground where the dog has to work. It is easier for the dog to catch the scent before it rises in the heat column of the day and becomes so widespread that the dog may not be able to pinpoint the place the scent originated from.

In Minnesota, there are problems with the Emerald Ash Borer and the DNR is watching the gypsy moth. In other states there is a boring beetle (Prionus lecontei) that attacks trees, and another pest that attacks hops crops. There are many benefits to being able to pinpoint a threat to your crops. By being able to pinpoint a specific area of the fields, a farmer is able to use fewer chemical applications to control the pest in question. Early detection enables the farmer to get a handle on a problem before it becomes an infestation and he loses the whole crop.

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Lure Coursing: a Fascinating and Fun Dog Sport

By Ruthie Bently

Do you live with a sight hound breed? You might consider the sport of lure coursing to relieve them of their excess energy. Lure coursing is a continuous loop on a pulley system that utilizes a plastic lure to simulate hunting for sight hounds.

Some breeds allowed to compete in lure coursing events include Afghan Hounds, Basenjis, Borzoi, Greyhounds, Ibizan Hounds, Irish Wolfhounds, Pharaoh Hounds, Rhodesian Ridgebacks, Salukis, Scottish Deerhounds, Thai Ridgebacks and Whippets. There are several provisional or limited breeds allowed to participate, including the Galgo Espanol, Magyar Agar, Peruvian Inca Orchid, Portuguese Podengo and Silken Windhound.

Lure coursing originated in England, though it was more formalized in the United States. While some form of lure coursing has existed for many years, the mechanical system that was previously used ran on a race track and lacked the turns hounds would use if they were pursuing live game. Lyle Gillette is credited with designing the mechanical device that uses a plastic lure. He wanted to find a safe way for hounds to be able to enjoy the chase with less chance of injury that could occur in an open field hunt.

Lure coursing as a sport began in the early 1960’s in the U.S., and Don Papin was one of the people influential in bringing it here. Sanctioned events began in 1972 and were conducted by the American Field Sighthound Association (AFSA). Lure coursing events are also conducted by the American Kennel Club, though the AKC did not begin until 1991. Lure coursing events conducted by the AKC or AFSA do not use live game; a plastic lure is used to imitate prey. While the scoring systems are different between the two organizations, the rules are similar. Only purebred dogs are allowed to compete, and unlike confirmation shows, spayed or neutered dogs are allowed to compete. You can visit the AFSA’s or the AKC’s website to find more information on events, and to read the complete rules and regulations.

Lure coursing events are conducted in an open field, and your dog is judged on their endurance, agility, speed, following, and overall ability. To compete in a lure coursing event, your dog must first be tested to see their capability of running the lure. This is done in two legs running alone while judges rate them. If the dog completes these legs to the judge’s satisfaction, the dog is awarded the title of “Junior Courser.” A dog must become a “Qualified Courser” before they are allowed to compete in a trial. To become a Qualified Courser, your dog must be able to run the course with another dog.

You can begin training a puppy in lure coursing as early as three months of age. To see if your puppy seems interested in this fun dog sport, you can use a plastic bag attached to a whip to simulate the lure. To test your puppy out on the lure, waiting until the age of six months is better. They should be able to do a straight run and return to you.

The key commands used in lure coursing are “tally ho” and “retrieve your dog.” Tally ho is the command to release your dog, and you are not allowed to slip the dog until you hear that command. This lets you know that the lure course operator, judges and handler are ready. The “retrieve your dog” command is given if the lure breaks down or after each course is run, and then the dog handler needs to retrieve them.

Lure courses can be conducted at a park or school, and depending on weather can be run in any season. The course size ranges from six hundred to one thousand yards and will not just be a big circle. The course should simulate the turns the “prey” may be making. A pilot dog runs the course first to test the lure. Then the course is reversed and run again to check for any additional issues and to make sure the course is running properly. Dogs compete in heats of three, and each dog wears a jacket so judges can rate them individually.

If your dog has extra energy and likes to run, the fun sport of lure coursing may be just what he needs.

Photo courtesy of Jim Wallace.

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Book Review: Careers for Your Cat

By Ruthie Bently

Do you think your feline friend needs to get a job and pull their own weight for their cat food, toys, treats and kitty litter? Well, author Ann Dziemianowicz has the solution for you! This self-proclaimed feline career counselor who assists cats in landing their dream jobs, has written Careers For Your Cat. The premise of this light-hearted look at feline careers is to enable owners to “sit back, relax, and take a well-earned cat nap.”

In the early 1990s as her bank account took a down turn, the author decided to acquaint her beloved feline companions with the hard reality of want ads, resumes and interviews. She felt her fifteen-plus years of experience as a career counselor and career coach gave her an insight into what her own feline family needed to be looking at.

After developing her unique methods, she has applied this expertise to thousands of now satisfied feline 9 to 5ers, which get up every morning to face the day and the “rat race” we all know in some form or another. She interviews owners and their felines, and after specific testing is able to point the previously wayward house cats to a life of fulfillment in their given professions.

She developed the “Meowers-Briggs Career/Personality Test” that is comprised of two parts. The test should be given after a meal in an area free of distractions to give your cat the opportunity to answer the questions to the best of their ability. It is suggested that the cat pick the answer most like themselves, but it is permissible to give as many as two answers to each question.

Part one has sixteen questions that ask a cat questions like: What is your favorite activity? Where do you prefer to sleep? What do you enjoy playing with? It finds out about a cat’s dining preferences, what they do when they see a mouse and what happens when they are greeted by a dog. These questions are designed to find out a cat’s career type. You can find out if your cat has traits that are creative, labor-intensive, intellectual or an inert introvert.

Part two of the “Meowers-Briggs Career/Personality Test” determines a cat’s personality type and is comprised of two sub-parts. By answering true or false to the options listed you are able to determine your cat’s personality. Depending on your cat’s answers to this part you are able to determine if your cat is an introvert or extravert. After your cat completes the test you can view career options for each of the seven career/personality combinations available. 

There are seven categories your cat may fit into and thirty-four total careers listed for them. For example, if your cat is an intellectual introvert, they are defined as abstract thinkers with high IQs, they value loyalty and quiet, spend hours in silent reflection and prefer to work behind the scenes for effective results. Careers available for them include librarian, marine biologist, psychotherapist and private investigator. To further define if this career would be a good fit for your cat there is a list of traits which define each career opportunity. Last but not least there are tips included for your cat to ace their interview.

Careers for Your Cat is an easy read for anyone who loves felines. At only 96 pages, it is short enough to retain any young person’s attention, and they will love the illustrations. Adults will love the wry sense of humor the author utilizes when describing the varied careers for cats. 

Before writing this book, Ann Dziemianowicz was an Advertising Manager at Simon and Schuster, and more recently she was the Assistant Director of Publications and a Senior Writer at Stevens Institute. Her own cats have had various careers. Her cat Milton is a cabaret singer, Fella is a restaurant pastry cook, and Bibsy is a private detective.

The illustrator, Ann Boyajian, has several previously published books to her credit. She lives and works with her husband and cats near Boston. She credits her four-footed feline models for the inspiration of her sophisticated, elegant graphics which reveal her wry wit.

So pour yourself a beverage, curl up in your favorite reading spot and take a look at career seeking felines who aren’t afraid to assist their human companions by pulling their own weight.

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How Big Will My Puppy Get?

By Ruthie Bently

When people decide to adopt a puppy, they usually want to know how big it will be when full grown. Interestingly enough, the genes that determine a puppy’s adult size come from both the sire and the dam, not just one parent. They each contribute three alleles of size to their offspring and the combination of these determines how large your puppy will be. However, without knowing which alleles for size each parent is providing, it can be difficult to determine the puppy’s adult size.

If you get a puppy from a reputable breeder and are getting an AKC recognized breed, ask the breeder if both parents are on the property and if you can see them. By looking at the sire and dam of your chosen puppy, you can get an idea of how large it will be as an adult. An alternative is to check your local library for the American Kennel Club’s latest edition of The Complete Dog Book. It contains the breed standards of dogs currently recognized by the AKC. It can provide you with the adult size and weight that your puppy should be when  full grown.

If you are adopting a mixed breed puppy, it can be a bit more difficult to determine its adult size. Not everyone owns both the sire and the dam of a mixed breed puppy. Many times the female will come into season and become pregnant before her owner knows what has happened, and they don’t always know the male or males responsible. If you are adopting a puppy from a shelter, they may not know the breed of either parent or the age of the puppy. If you can see both of the parents, you can get an idea of the size the puppy will be when full grown. If both the parents are seventy pounds, chances are your puppy will be close to that size full grown. Likewise, if you have two ten pound parents your puppy will be a smaller adult.

I read an article which stated that with two dogs of differing sizes, the puppy’s size will come more from the mother. I disagree with that; I personally know of several dogs whose father was larger than the mother and the puppy is a large adult. One dog I know is a fifty pound cockapoo/terrier mix whose mother was a cockapoo that weighed ten pounds and whose father was a terrier mix that was over sixty pounds.

There are several other ways to help you determine the size that your adorable puppy will grow to. Look at their paws – if they have large paws it is a safe bet they will be a large dog when they are full grown. How loose is their skin? If they aren’t a Shar Pei it is another indicator that they will be growing into that extra skin and could be a large dog.

You can also document the puppy’s weight and height as it grows, and by keeping track of this on a growth chart you might be able to estimate how large your puppy will be as an adult. If the age of the puppy is unknown you could have your vet examine their teeth to help determine their age. The growth plates of a puppy’s long bones (found in their legs) fuse closed between the age of eight to eleven months old, but their weight continues until they are adults. A large breed puppy like a Saint Bernard or Great Dane will not be fully grown before the age of two.

An easy way to predict your puppy’s adult height is that it will reach approximately 75% of its adult height at about six months old. A non-scientific method is called the “double it” formula. You take the puppy’s weight at fourteen weeks and by doubling this you can get the estimated weight it will be as an adult. Since many of the larger breeds are not adults until the age of two, this formula won’t work for them.

Whichever method you choose, make sure before you get a new puppy that they will be a welcome addition to your family. A dog can bring great joy, unconditional love and plenty of laughter to your household, but you need to remember they will be with you for a long time. So now that you know how big your puppy will be, how big of a puppy do you want?

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Keep Your Pets Safe from Poisonous Creatures

By Ruthie Bently

Growing up in northern Illinois, I didn’t see many venomous creatures, though my friends and I found a nest of baby rattlesnakes one day under a railroad trestle; we figured they’d fallen off a train car passing overhead. While venomous creatures exist in most of the United States and around the world, many employ flight over fight unless cornered. Venomous creatures use their venom when hunting, and at times we and our pets are in the wrong place at the right time.

There are many poisonous spiders that are dangerous to our pets. The best known are the black widow, brown recluse and tarantula. There are three black widow spiders indigenous to the U.S. The Western (Lactrodectus hesperus) is found from southwestern Canada down into Mexico; the Northern (Lactrodectus variiolus) ranges from southeastern Canada to the northeastern U.S., and the Southern black widow’s (Lactrodectus mactans) range covers New York to Florida, the southeastern U.S., and to the west across Oklahoma and Texas. The black widow’s venom (a neurotoxin) is reputed to be fifteen times more dangerous than a rattlesnake’s, and symptoms include increased blood pressure, limb rigidity, shortness of breath, abdominal spasms and dizziness.

The brown recluse ranges from Illinois south to Texas and from West Virginia to Georgia. Its range is expanding due to inadvertent transport by humans, and might be found in any of the lower 48 states. Its venom causes tissue damage around the bite and in extreme cases liver or kidney damage. While the bite of a tarantula may be painful and not usually fatal to humans, it may be lethal to small pets. When threatened, tarantulas have the ability to kick hairs from their abdomen which cause a burning sensation to mucous membranes or sensitive skin. Their range in the U.S. covers the southwest, central California, and they’ve been found in southern Illinois. Symptoms include the wound becoming red and feeling warm, skin rash, itching, swelling of throat and lips, and cardiovascular collapse in extreme cases.

There are between 1,500 and 2,000 scorpions worldwide; over 70 species are found in North America. Scorpions are nocturnal and possess a sting used to capture and overcome prey. Scorpions can be found under stones, bark on trees, leaf litter on the ground, in dark crevices and dry abandoned dirt roads. All scorpions are venomous though the most toxic in the U.S. is the Bark Scorpion (also known as the Sculptured Scorpion). Its range covers southern Nevada, southern and western Arizona and southern Utah. Its sting is acutely toxic and can be life-threatening to a pet. The Hentz’s Striped Scorpion range covers Florida, the Gulf States and as far west as Arizona and Mexico. The Giant Hairy Scorpion (H. arizonensis) is the largest species of nine species of Hadrurus scorpions in the U.S., and is found in the southwest. The range of these species goes as far north as Idaho and as far east as Colorado.

There are venomous snakes in every state except Alaska and Hawaii. Three species of toxic coral snakes (elapids) inhabit the U.S. The coral snake is a banded snake with bands of red, yellow and black. It’s sometimes confused with the king snake which has the same color bands, but is non-venomous. There is an easy way to remember the difference.  Just remember this: “red on black, friend to Jack” (describes king snake banding pattern); “red on yellow, can kill a fellow” (describes coral snake banding pattern).

The pit vipers include five species of copperheads, three species of cottonmouths (water moccasin), and thirty-one species of rattlesnakes including the Massasauga which is on the Endangered and Threatened Species List in several states. Some of these snakes may not be dangerous to humans, but they are to our pets. Hawaii doesn’t have a venomous terrestrial snake, but it does have the Yellow-bellied sea snake, a cobra family member. Its range encompasses the Pacific Ocean, from Africa to the western coast of the Americas, including many Pacific islands to Hawaii, and it’s found near the coasts of Costa Rica and Panama. They’re helpless if beached, but should be avoided. For more information see Linda Cole’s article What to Do If a Snake Bites Your Pet. If snakes are numerous where you live, consider snake aversion therapy.

Being a responsible pet owner means keeping your pet safe from venomous creatures. If you sight an animal on your property, your pet catches one, or one bites your animal here are two good websites for information. At Enature.com you can find species by identification and locate a species you’ve seen or find out what dangerous creatures are indigenous to your area of the country. Venombyte.com lists venomous species by state.

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Venomous Creatures That Can Endanger Pets

By Ruthie Bently

There are many creatures in the United States (both native and non-native) that are venomous to our family pets. They can be found at the beach, in the woods, on a hike, even in your own backyard. This article will help to give you a head’s up on the creatures that are toxic to your pets, and where you might encounter them.

The only U.S. state with poisonous frogs is Hawaii. The Green and Black Poison Dart Frog was introduced in 1932 in an effort to control mosquitoes. While most frogs are nocturnal, poison dart frogs are active during the day and their bright colors are a warning of danger. Their poison is used by rainforest Indians to tip their hunting arrows and blowgun darts. A small number contain toxins that can poison by contact, enter the skin through a cut, or orally. The poison can cause hallucinations, and can affect the heart. If your pet comes in contact with one of these frogs, take them to your vet immediately.

Every toad in the U.S. has toxins in their system in varying degrees. The largest native toad in the U.S. is the Colorado River Toad (Bufo alvarius). All toads have paratoid glands behind each eye on either side of their neck. When a dog or cat catches a toad, these glands release a poison that enters the mouth and throat of the pet causing inflammation. The most toxic, non-native toad in the United States is the Cane Toad (Bufo marinus), introduced to control sugarcane beetles. Its paratoid glands extend down the sides of its body. It was introduced to south Florida and its range is now southern Texas into Mexico.

If ingested, toad toxin can cause nausea, heart arrhythmias, seizures, signs of collapse, weakness and death. A pet does not need to eat a toad or swallow their toxin to be affected. The toxins can be absorbed through the mucous linings of a pet’s mouth. After mouthing a toad, a pet immediately begins drooling and the drool has an oily sheen to it. Pets may begin pawing at their mouth, shaking their head or have problems breathing. Try diluting the effects of the poison by completely washing out your pet’s mouth with water, and call your vet immediately. For more information about this venomous creature, read Dogs and Toads Don't Make a Good Duo.

The only venomous lizard in the U.S. is the Gila Monster, and there are two species: (Banded and Reticulated).The Banded is also known as the Northern Gila Monster, and its range covers four states: California, Arizona, Utah and Nevada. The Reticulated Gila Monster is also known as the Southern Gila Monster, and its range covers western Arizona and southwestern New Mexico. Both species can grow to a length of two feet and weigh three pounds. Gila Monsters are diurnal; this means they are active during the daytime, though they are slow moving. They do not usually attack unless cornered, however they do not let go once they have bitten something.

The Gila Monster has grooved teeth in its lower jaw and when it bites a victim the venom, which is a neurotoxin, is secreted from glands in the lower jaw that flows through the teeth into the wound created. As the Gila Monster keeps biting the venom keeps flowing; it is as toxic as the western diamondback rattlesnake’s venom. A bite causes swelling around the wound and considerable pain followed by nausea, thirst, faintness and weakness. While their bite is not fatal to humans, it may be to small pets, especially if there is arterial bleeding. One site suggests detaching the lizard by inserting a stick between its jaw and bite, and prying its mouth open; using a lighter or matches to apply heat under the lizard’s jaw until it lets go; or by dipping the lizard into water until it unfastens. Stop any bleeding if possible and flush the wound with a large quantity of clean, fresh water. Contact your vet before attempting these methods to make sure they would suggest this.

Newts are Salamindridae family members and when bothered secrete a sticky mucous from glands on their heads, bodies and tails that can be irritating to humans and pets. The Rough-Skinned Newt (Taricha granulosa) and other newts of the Taricha genus secrete a toxin similar to pufferfish liver toxin. Caution should be taken at all times to avoid these with your pets. Other newts in this genus include: Red-Bellied Newt, California Newt and the Coast Range Newt.

In my next article, I’ll cover more creatures that are venomous to pets, including spiders, scorpions and snakes.

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Treating Canine Arthritis in a Multi-Modal Fashion

By Ruthie Bently

Canine arthritis (Degenerative Joint Disease) generally affects our senior canine companions, though younger dogs can be affected also. Nowadays with the advances of veterinary medicine there are several treatment options: allopathic, homeopathic, alternative medicine and herbal remedies can help alleviate their symptoms and pain. Treating canine arthritis in a multi-modal fashion works well for many dogs, and you may find that more than one treatment will suit your dog’s needs the best.

If you go to a holistic veterinarian, some of the alternative therapies they might suggest include: acupuncture, animal chiropractic, Reiki, laser therapy, massage therapy and natural remedies. See my articles on alternative therapies and laser therapy for more information. Natural remedies work well with most dogs, though you should consult with your vet if you have a special needs dog before proceeding with treatment. Your vet may suggest a combination of natural remedies for better results. You can purchase natural remedies at your local herb, health food store or online herb store.

Perna and Greenlip mussels have been shown to assist in the restoration of connective tissues that have been damaged by canine arthritis. Several herbs have been found to be effective against the effects of canine arthritis. Comfrey given daily has been shown to be effective against arthritis. Many vets and dog owners recommend yucca to ease the pain of arthritis. It contains natural steroids that can relieve arthritis inflammation.

Stinging nettle cleans your dog’s blood and removes toxins that may exacerbate the symptoms of arthritis. It can also be made into a tea for your dog. If you don’t want to go through collecting and processing stinging nettle yourself you can get nettle extract instead. Alfalfa is good for soothing joint swelling too. Your dog’s weight and build will determine the daily dose, which will be between one teaspoon and three tablespoons.

Massage therapy is a wonderful way to bond with your dog while helping them deal with the vagaries of canine arthritis. Get an herbal oil suitable for your dog, and if you can’t find one locally then olive or sunflower oil will work too. Rubbing the oil into your dog’s joints can relieve the stiffness and relax their muscles.

A newer drug used in the treatment of canine arthritis is a joint fluid modifier. This is a long term treatment for arthritis and you may want to evaluate all your alternatives before deciding on this. Depending on the severity of the pain, your vet may suggest a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID). These reduce inflammation, provide pain relief and while not curing it can slow down the disease. Dosage should be determined by your vet and monitored by you for possible side effects. You should also observe your pet closely when on these medications to make sure they don’t overdo any exercise. By reducing the inflammation your pet will feel better, though not healed, and they may want to play or exercise more than they should.

Preventative medicine is the best course, and regular exercise can help your dog’s joints, as activity delivers lubricating fluid to the joints. You don’t want to run a marathon or go too far, and should discuss the safe amount of daily exercise your dog can have with your vet. If your dog is overweight this compounds the problem and makes the situation worse. An overweight dog will suffer more pain and have more strain and pressure on their joints.

If your dog is used to jumping up on furniture, consider providing them with a set of stairs to make their ascent easier. A bed that keeps your dog off the floor or is cushioned with four or more inches of foam will help them rest their joints more comfortably. Ask your vet if adding a heating pad will help your dog’s situation.

If you suspect your dog may be suffering from canine arthritis you should have them evaluated by your veterinarian to make certain this is what the issue is. After your dog has been diagnosed, your vet will probably have several suggestions for you. Being a responsible pet owner means evaluating all the options available and choosing the ones that will best serve your dog.

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The Dangers of Treated Wood for Pets

By Ruthie Bently

Pressure treated wood was used for over 68 years in both residential and commercial applications. While it is no longer supposed to be used in residential applications, it’s been used to build decks, walkways, fences, picnic tables, raised garden beds, dog houses, and  other structures where a wood that’s resistant to the elements is needed. However, pressure treated wood poses many dangers to our pets (as well as our families) that you may not be aware of. 

The process for pressure-treating lumber was invented by Dr. Karl Wolman, and he was issued a U.S. patent for it on September, 29, 1942. The wood product created won’t decay or rot for over 20 years. The wood used was most prevalently preserved with chromate copper arsenate (CCA) and its use began to cease in 2004 due to safety concerns. However, it is still in use in several industrial applications and in some countries around the world. Arsenate is a salt or ester of arsenic acid, in short arsenic which is an exceedingly toxic chemical, as well as a known carcinogen. CCA toxicity can be caused by inhalation of gas created by burning CCA treated wood in a fire. It can also be caused by a dog eating the wood or ashes from a CCA wood fire. One tablespoon of ash from CCA wood contains a fatal dose of arsenic.

Splinters under the skin can cause an infection, and skin coming in contact with the treated wood or lumber can cause dermal irritation or a rash. One Wisconsin man reported his 85 pound Labrador began to show signs of lethargy, no energy and stiffness. It was thought that the dog was poisoned through inhalation of vapors inside his cage (made from CCA treated wood) or through skin contact or even ingesting the wood of the cage. A Pennsylvania man reported that he had been sawing CCA treated wood for about three months, and a few months into the project his dog died of unknown causes. Under certain conditions the chemicals used to preserve the wood can leach out. Arsenic is water soluble and can mix with rainwater puddling on a deck.

How do you protect your pet if there is CCA treated wood on your property? Make sure there are no puddles on your deck after a rainstorm; watering the grass with a sprinkler or power washing windows might also cause the deck to get wet. Never feed, water or give treats to your pet on the deck, and keep their toys off the deck. Limit their access to the deck; if limiting access is not possible, consider a rug for them to lie on. When laundering any rug from the deck wash it by itself to keep from cross contaminating any other items you launder.

Check the deck to see if it needs to be resanded to prevent paw splinters. Wash your pet’s paws and fur after their contact with the deck. Don’t let your pet play in wood chips or soil under or around CCA treated wood unless they test negative for arsenic.

If you’re building or buying a dog house, make sure it is not made with pressure-treated wood. To protect the wood, use paint, stain or oil that is non-toxic. If you have an outdoor project, consider vinyl alternatives or naturally resistant woods like cedar or redwood. Use reclaimed cedar or redwood. Use regular wood and treat with linseed oil or non-toxic stain or paint, and replace it more often.

As the use of CCA as a wood preservative is being discontinued, other preservatives that use the same process are taking its place: Amine Copper Quat (ACQ-D), Copper Azole (CA), Alkaline Copper Quaternary (ACQ) or Quat for short, and Amoniacal Copper Zinc Arsenate (ACZA). There are pros and cons on both sides of the issue, and if you’re a pet owner I would suggest caution when using any pressure-treated wood.

If you believe that your dog or cat may have been exposed to CCA, you can contact the following poison hotlines for information on symptoms and treatment, as well as prevention of a future incident.

Pet Poison Helpline website, (800) 213-6680. Calls from the United States are answered 24 hours a day.
ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center. Available 24 hours a day for emergencies at: (888) 426-4435.

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