Training a Sensitive Dog

By Linda Cole

Dogs have different personalities just like we do. Each one is an individual who does show us how they feel, as long as we pay attention. Dogs can be confident, laid back and eager to please their owner. Others show a more sensitive side. It can take a little more prodding to train a sensitive dog, because you first have to gain his trust. If your dog seems hesitant, he may be sensitive.

We've been taking care of a friend's dog since late winter. Dozer is a gentle and loving dog who acts like he wants to do what we ask, but he's sensitive. Because he belongs to a friend, we were hesitate to get too involved with training him, but he needs to know basic commands whether he's here or with his owner. We began a normal training program with him and failed miserably. Since conventional methods weren't working, we needed to change tactics to gain his trust and help him find his confidence.

Sometimes we need to be more determined and committed without becoming frustrated. We need to stay calm, patient and consistent always. An eager dog makes training easy and fun, but a sensitive dog can present challenges that require a slower and gentler approach.

You can't give up on a dog for any reason. As responsible pet owners, sometimes we need to take a deep breath and think about how we can best help a dog who doesn't respond to normal training techniques. Some sensitive dogs are skittish around loud noises and may have issues with touch or be easily distracted. Some become emotional if we use the wrong tone of voice or may be apprehensive of other pets in the home. Yelling or rough play with another dog or person can send them scurrying away to hide because they're unsure how to handle the situation, and running away helps them handle their frustration.

A sensitive dog can develop behavior problems if they're mishandled. They may be fearful, hard to manage, shy, have neurotic tendencies or get their feelings hurt and react to any negativity by refusing to move, running away, hiding or acting confused. Training a sensitive dog can challenge an owner to the point of giving up, but don't. Go with what works, even if it's unconventional. I've learned to use a soft voice when talking to our guy and discovered that sometimes a whisper gets his attention better than a normal voice.

Take your time with training and be extra patient. Reward any achievement no matter how small with lots of praise and treats. Keep him motivated by giving him easy challenges he can accomplish to help build his confidence. Just like people, dogs are individuals who respond to different types of stimulus, motivation and training. They don't all learn at the same speed and training a sensitive dog should be done carefully to keep him from developing behavior problems.

You can't strong arm a sensitive dog. If you show frustration and get upset, it's apt to counter any progress you've accomplished. Yelling will only send him in the opposite direction or leave him confused. Corrections that work for other dogs may not work on a sensitive dog. He needs lots of patience and understanding for you to earn his trust and respect.

You may never know why a dog is sensitive, aggressive or scared. Adopted dogs from shelters can have a history no one knows about, and even a family pet may have had a run in with another pet or person you’re not aware of. It's worth your time and effort to gain the trust of a sensitive dog so you can help him learn basic commands that could save his life one day. Helping a dog become more confident is a good thing.

Dozer loves attention and lays his head on my knee for a good ear scratching, but he gets a look in his eyes like he's not sure if it's alright. He loves the training sessions and the attention, and has responded well to every command except to come when called. After watching him interact with the other dogs, I discovered his reluctance to come is due to one of our dogs who wants to play with him all the time. They get along well, but he doesn't know how to deal with her when they're roughhousing. She gets too rough, which causes him to withdraw until she settles down or we confine her away from him. He's a good dog who's trying to understand. Time, lots of praise, patience and understanding is what he needs from us. It's all about trust and commitment, along with a pocketful of CANIDAE Snap-Bits™ treats for rewards.

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How to Deal with Food Aggression in Pets

By Linda Cole

You may have a loving pet who would never do anything to hurt a family member – as long as no one touches his food. A food aggressive dog or cat is more apt to be given to a shelter or put down because their owner didn't know how to deal with the problem. Food aggression doesn't mean you can't live with the pet; it simply means you need to change their behavior to one that's acceptable to you. Here are some tips on what to do (and what not to do) when dealing with food aggression in pets.

Food aggression in dogs is a serious and potentially dangerous issue that needs to be stopped before it gets out of hand. When a dog growls at other pets or people while he eats, or even when his bowl is empty, he's showing food aggression. It's never cute, and a puppy who shows signs of food aggression needs his behavior changed before he grows into an adult.

Punishing the dog won't work. If you take away his food, you reinforce his fear and proved to him he has to protect his food. Yelling only leaves him with negative thoughts. Neither one will stop his food aggressive behavior. Dogs learn what's acceptable when we use positive reinforcement and rewards to get rid of unacceptable behavior.

If your dog displays mild aggression, meaning he doesn't try to take your hand off when you get near his food, try holding him back from his bowl while you pick it up. Have him watch as you add something tasty like cheese or cooked chicken. Let him eat that, then repeat the process. He's learning that not only are you not trying to take his food away, you're adding something tasty to his bowl.

To deal with a more serious food aggression problem with a dog, you need a different approach. Put his bowl on a table and have him sit. Feed him one piece of food at a time. If he tries to grab or snap it from your hand, wrap it in your fist and tell him “careful” or whatever word you want to use. Give it to him when he's being gentle. He'll learn that you control his food. It might take a couple weeks to change his behavior, so stay consistent and positive. After a week, put his bowl on the floor with half his normal amount in it and add more food as he eats. Drop in some CANIDAE Snap-Bits™ treats with the food to reinforce his good behavior.

Cats aren't as likely to have food aggression issues, but some may. Usually, they're showing aggression that comes from other sources. I’ve had cats that insisted on dining alone and made it clear they didn't want to share. However, that behavior is more of a hierarchy issue than a display of food aggression.

Food aggression can be difficult to diagnose in cats because there can be other factors involved that have nothing to do with food. Anytime a cat exhibits any aggression, they should be checked out by a vet to make sure there's no medical problem causing it. If they get a clean bill of health, observe your cat to see if there are other reasons that could be making them aggressive, like another pet.

Stray cats or ones adopted from shelters can have food aggression issues if they had to fight for or protect their food at one time. Even though we provide them with daily food, they still think they have to protect it from other pets and sometimes, their owner. Food aggression, in most cases, can be stopped by feeding the cat in another room, away from other pets in the home. If it's a dog upsetting the cat, feed her where the dog can't get to her food. Most cats will resolve their own food aggression once they learn no one is going to “steal it” from them. If your cat protects her food from you, an effective and humane way to deal with an attacking cat is to spray her in the face with a squirt bottle filled with clean water. Be careful not to spray in the eyes or ears. It'll get her attention and help refocus the mind so she can learn the behavior you want.

Food aggression in pets can be dealt with as long as you recognize the problem and then work on resolving it before someone in the family gets hurt. It's up to us as responsible pet owners to let them know what is acceptable behavior, and it can be taught with patience, understanding, positive reinforcement and praise.

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What is a Martingale Collar?

By Linda Cole

I was searching for a new collar for one of my dogs awhile back and ran across an odd looking one I’d never seen before. I had no idea how it even went on the dog, so I hung it back up and continued my search. Recently, I learned what it was – a Martingale collar – and why it's one I need to consider. What is a Martingale collar, and what makes it better than some of the other choices we've had in the past?

What threw me when I saw the Martingale collar was the little loop on the back that appeared to have no function that I could see. However, that loop is what makes the collar a more humane one over the chain choke collar I've been using on my dogs.

I had a female Siberian Husky who kept escaping from her buckle collar. After so many times of chasing her down the street and screaming her name in vain as she raced away, I decided I needed a collar she couldn't wiggle out of. She always came back, but that's beside the point. I sure could have used a Martingale collar back then, but at that time, my only choice was a chain choke collar.

Choke collars are controversial for good reason. They were made for training purposes and aren't supposed to be used as a regular collar for a dog. However, many owners find them useful in controlling their dog or as a collar for dogs like mine who wiggle out of a buckle collar. They should be used with extreme care though. If used incorrectly or by an overly aggressive owner, a choke chain can be very harmful to dogs.

A choke chain does exactly what the name implies. It can also damage the dog's soft muscle tissues and  trachea, and can cause injuries to a dog's spine, especially if the collar is put on wrong. The skin can easily be pulled through the metal ring of the collar or pinch the skin. Worn incorrectly, the choke chain won't function properly during training sessions and the dog becomes confused as to what's expected of him. He did what was asked, but if the chain doesn't release its tension, the dog thinks he's still being corrected. This type of collar should never be used on any small breed dog or on puppies.

A Martingale collar works in a similar way as the choke collar, but it can't be pulled so tight it chokes the dog or causes injury to the neck. It tightens just enough to get the dog's attention and releases the tension when the leash is relaxed.

This collar was originally designed for dogs with heads smaller than their necks, mainly the sight hounds like the Greyhound or Saluki. However, this is a good collar for any dog owner who has a wiggly dog who can escape a buckle collar or a larger breed that's harder to handle and likes to pull on his leash. When the dog pulls on his leash, the Martingale collar will tighten just enough to keep the dog from backing out of it. Once the dog relaxes and stops pulling, the collar loosens on his neck. It's also called a limited slip collar or Greyhound collar.

The proper fit of a Martingale collar is gauged by the two metal rings on the back of the collar holding the little loop that's attached to a leash. When the collar tightens, the two rings should never meet. If they do, the collar is too big and the dog will be able to back out of or wiggle out of this collar. The purpose of the rings is to allow the collar to tighten just enough to keep the dog secure. Once you have the correct fit, it can be taken on and off the dog without having to readjust it.

A Martingale collar is not a half-check collar. It looks similar, but the Martingale is made entirely of nylon which reduces the chance of the dog's hair or skin getting caught in chain. They're sold in narrow or wider widths for better control. You can find Martingale collars with the little loop made out of chain.

It can be used as your dog's regular collar, but the small loop can get caught on things, so it's highly recommended to remove the Martingale collar anytime the dog is left unattended or allowed to wander on his own, especially while hiking. Put a regular buckle collar on your dog as his main collar and use the Martingale when he's on a leash for safer control for you and him.

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Dog Training with Consistency and Patience

By Linda Cole

Most of us are not professional dog trainers, but our canine companions still need basic training to help keep them safe. As long as you stay consistent and patient with your dog, he will learn what you're trying to teach him. As responsible pet owners, we understand why a dog needs to learn basic commands like sit, stay, down and no. And of course, every dog should know to come as soon as they're called. The hard part, especially with a more head strong dog, is how to do it without a professional dog trainer. If you don't have access to one or can't afford a professional trainer, don't worry about it. Get yourself lots of CANIDAE dog treats and a good leash, and stay calm. Training your dog might take a little longer when you aren't sure what you're doing, but rest assured you can do it.

Understand your dog's breed characteristics to help you know what you can expect from him, even if you have a mixed breed. Some dogs learn faster, but all dogs are capable of learning basic commands as long as you're willing to commit to dog training. Some breeds have a stubborn streak and others are laid back and eager to please. Some dogs respond well with only praise and some need more incentive with a tasty treat. Either way works, but make sure to include lots of praise with or without treats.

Exercise your dog before starting. Begin with a walk or some play time, just enough to get rid of pent up energy so he's ready to concentrate on learning. It helps him focus on your commands once you begin training your dog. A walk is also the perfect time to work on heel and sit.

Make dog training a game, and keep it simple. When you're ready to train your dog, the more fun he has learning, the more willing he'll be to learn. Don't get stressed out if he's not paying attention, and never hit him or yell at him. You don’t want to give your dog negative feelings. An anxious dog can act out if he's frustrated and doesn't understand what he's doing wrong or why you're yelling at him. Keep it fun so he'll look forward to the next dog training session.

Stay calm, and be patient. You can't force a dog to learn. You may be ready to train your dog, but he may not be ready. It doesn't mean “now” isn't the right time. He just may need a little encouragement to get into the game. Staying calm will transfer to your dog. He understands your moods by your body language and tone of voice.

Stay consistent with your commands. If you're teaching your dog to sit, use the same command every time. Don't confuse him by using different words for the same command and expect him to learn each one. “Sit” should be sit or sit down, but not both.

It's not necessary to use your dog's name before each command. He knows you're speaking to him. If you're training more than one dog, don't try to train them together. It's much easier when you don't have to divide your attention, and they won't feel like they have to compete with each other.

Don't let your dog intimidate you. When you're trying to train your dog and he doesn't want to have anything to do with learning, don't give up. Few dogs can resist their favorite treat. To keep your dog from running back to his spot on the couch or racing around the backyard, put him on a leash. You're now in control of the dog training session. Start with easy commands like sit and lay down. With lots of praise and good treats, he'll be eager for his next lesson.

Stop when he gets bored. Sooner or later, learning turns into boredom. You don't have to spend a long time teaching him commands. Once he understands what you want, practice each command every day to reinforce it. When he knows the basics, then you can start teaching him some tricks.

Don't get mad if he isn't paying attention. Dog training requires your dog's full attention. If he isn't hungry, a treat won't work. If there are other activities going on around him, it's hard for him to concentrate if he'd rather be playing or keeping an eye on the neighborhood squirrels. Try again later.

Most dogs learn basic commands quickly. Don't give up! Dog training isn't difficult or time consuming, but it does require staying calm, consistent and patient.

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Teaching Your Dog to Fetch

By Ruthie Bently

You can teach your dog to fetch a newspaper, Frisbee, beer, a ball, even an egg. You can teach your dog to fetch (or retrieve) anything that is small enough for them to get a secure grip on, pick up and bring back to you. Teaching your dog to fetch is a good way to give them the mental stimulation they need so they don’t get bored and misbehave.

It is easiest to teach your dog to fetch when they are a puppy, but an adult dog can be taught to fetch too. With any training program, patience, praise, repetition and treats like CANIDAE Snap-Bits™ work well. Schedule your training time when the temperature is comfortable for both you and your dog, and not during the heat of the day. Only work your dog for 15 to 20 minutes at a time. If your dog already knows the commands for sit, come, stay and drop it ahead of time, this will facilitate teaching them to fetch an object for you.

Attach your dog to a six foot leash to allow them room to move. Using one of their favorite toys, begin by showing them the toy and pass it from hand to hand. Put them on a sit/stay and toss the toy a few feet away from you. Detach the leash and tell them to get the toy using the command “fetch.” If they don’t immediately go and get the ball, walk them over to it and repeat your command. If they don’t pick it up, then you pick it up and offer it to them. If your dog takes the ball, praise them and offer them a treat. Take the toy back to your starting point, put your dog on a sit/stay and begin again.

If your dog goes and get the toy and only comes part way back to you before stopping, encourage them to bring it all the way to you. If they drop the toy and return to you, you can ask them “where’s your toy?” Use praise and encouragement to get them to go back for it but don’t offer a treat until they bring the toy back to you. Don’t chase after them; that will only excite them in a game of chase and won’t further your cause. Your dog will learn quickly that fetching a toy brings praise and a treat from you, and will want to bring the toy back. Once your dog brings the toy back from a few feet away, you can begin tossing it further and further away from you. When they are fetching on their own and know the command, you can stop giving treats and reward them with praise alone, as your dog will want to play fetch just for the fun of it.

If your dog doesn’t already know the command for release, you can teach it to them as well. When your dog brings the toy back to you, steady their head with one hand. Place your other hand in front of their mouth and say “release.” If your dog doesn’t want to let go, repeat the “release” command and gently remove the toy from their mouth. Offer praise and a treat. Keep repeating the exercise until your dog lets go of the toy on their own. It is best to teach one command a day so as not to confuse your dog or wear them out.

Another command I have taught Skye is “easy.” This is a simple one to teach and I did it using CANIDAE Snap-Bits™ treats and abundant praise. While Skye was on a sit/stay, I put a treat between my thumb and forefinger and offered it to her after telling her “easy.” If she grabbed for the treat, I scolded her with a firm “no,” put her back on the sit/stay and tried again. When she reached for the treat gently, I praised her profusely and gave her the treat. Skye still forgets her treat manners sometimes. I just correct her bad behavior with a “no” and we try again. She never makes the mistake twice and I still have all my fingers.

Teaching your dog to fetch is good exercise for both of you, and if your dog becomes proficient at it, you might consider teaching them to be a disc dog, joining a disc dog team and competing. Every dog needs an activity, and teaching your dog to fetch can be the beginning of a wonderful job for them. This can keep them calm and well-behaved at home and become a fun hobby for you.

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Training Dogs to Respond to a Silent Whistle

By Linda Cole

Whistle training is usually only done by hunters or herders to control their dog while out in the field. But using a silent whistle to give your dog commands has its advantages. I started using a silent dog whistle years ago when I learned that my Siberian Husky was an escape artist. Instead of having to walk the neighborhood yelling, I could simply blow on the whistle and she could hear it better than my voice. Training your dog to respond to a silent dog whistle is just like teaching them to come to you when you call them using a voice command. It's easy to do, as long as you are consistent, patient and have plenty of treats and praise for your dog.

A silent dog whistle makes little to no sound that humans can hear, but dogs and even cats hear it loud and clear. The only thing we hear is our breath as it goes through the whistle. You may hear a whistle depending on how you have the pitch set. But it isn't very loud to us because the sound the dog whistle emits is up in the higher range we can't pick up.

If you have an outside cat you would like to train to come to the dog whistle or would like to train your inside cat to respond when you blow the whistle, the same training techniques used for a dog would be applied. Cats don't always come when called, but they may surprise you if they think there's something in it for them, like food. A sharp blast gets their attention almost as good as a can opener, and all cats understand what that sound means.

Depending on where you buy your dog whistle, the price can be anywhere from $1.50 up to $50.00. You don't need an expensive whistle, and the ones under $10.00 are just fine. You can buy them with or without a lanyard, but I've found having a cord attached to the whistle makes it easier to find because you can hang it in a convenient spot and hang it around your neck when using it.

Training your dog to respond to a silent whistle

The first thing you need to do is decide which commands you want your dog to learn. The dog whistle works well for calling your dog if you're hiking and he's off leash, if he's a country dog that's wandered down to the back forty or if he has become lost. You can use the whistle inside the home as well and train your dog to come, sit or stay by using long and short whistles. There is no wrong way to do it. Start by getting your dog accustomed to the sound of the silent dog whistle. If your dog is out of the room when you blow it and responds to the sound, give him a treat and praise.

Once you have his attention, pick one series of whistles for the command you want him to respond to. For instance, I use two short whistles for “come.” If you want your dog to sit or stay, you will need different whistles for those basic commands. Each time your dog does what the whistle asks, give him a treat and lots of praise.

Using a silent dog whistle is just like using your voice. Be patient and only use the series of whistles meant for each command. When your dog is in the same room with you, it's best not to use the whistle and a voice command is more appropriate.

If you are blowing the dog whistle and your dog pays no attention to it, adjust the pitch on the whistle and keep testing it until you see your dog's ears move. That's an indication he does hear it. It's very important to keep the whistle tuned to that particular pitch and frequency, because just like the sound of your voice when you speak a command, your dog will learn what that sound means and respond accordingly. Like any training session, make it a game and have plenty of CANIDAE Snap-Biscuit® or Snap-Bits™ treats around to reward him.

One of the worst feelings I ever had was the first time my Husky pulled out of her collar and took off. That was when I began checking into silent dog whistles and started using it around the dogs to get them use to the sound. The only command I've taught the dogs is to come when I blow the dog whistle. Hopefully, if one decides to roam, the silent dog whistle can help them find their way home without me yelling and disturbing the neighbors.

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How to Train Your Dog with Invisible Fencing

By Suzanne Alicie

Invisible fencing is a method of containing your pet that, while it may seem quick and easy, actually requires quite a bit of training in order to make your pet understand. Essentially the fencing is laid underground and your pet will wear a transmitter collar. As your pet nears the fencing area the collar will beep; this is your pet’s signal to turn back. If your pet continues he will approach the fencing and receive (typically) a shock. Another method some company’s use is to spray citronella in the dog’s face. Either of these methods are a repellent to the dog, and he will want to avoid them. However, it is up to you as a responsible pet owner to work with your pet and teach him what the beeping and the fencing response means. Otherwise you may have a very confused dog who continually tries to bolt over or cross the fencing area.

Before attempting to train your dog with an invisible fencing system, it is essential that he knows the basic commands. It’s also important to keep in mind that the fence training is not something which can be fully accomplished in a few short weeks. Dogs continue to learn what is expected of them as they grow and encounter new situations.

To begin training your dog to understand invisible fencing, you must first mark the boundaries. Use flags or cones to outline the path of the invisible fencing. Place your dog on the leash with the fencing de-activated and walk him around the perimeter. Allow him to smell and become accustomed to these additions to his yard.

After the first few trips around the yard, activate the fencing and allow him to only go to where the warning beep sounds. Continue this daily for about a week. Next, place your dog on the leash or a run and affix it so that he can’t go past the beep trigger area. Allow him to wander and roam within this area only. Continue this practice for a few days.

Lengthen the leash so that your dog can reach just past the perimeter of the fencing. As he wanders the yard, and you see him approaching the warning beep area call him back. Be sure to praise him and reward him for his effort. If he continues after you call him he will either be shocked or sprayed. At that time, walk him around the perimeter allowing him to recognize the warning beeps and if necessary get sprayed or shocked as he examines the perimeter. This will help reinforce the boundaries and teach your dog the consequences if he attempts to leave the boundaries.

Each day, remove a few of the perimeter markings and continue to let your dog explore while leashed until he knows the boundaries. It takes approximately 6 weeks for a dog to learn the boundaries and be allowed to play in the yard while off the leash.

As a responsible pet owner, it is important that you never leave your unleashed dog unattended in an invisibly fenced yard. Some dogs are smarter than you think, and will realize that if they get over the perimeter the shock will stop. A black lab owned by a neighbor of mine had it figured out that if he could just get past the fencing he was in the clear. It was dangerous for the dog, but also amusing to watch him race across the yard, jump the boundary with a little yelp and then run down the street. Despite the owner’s expense, and the training, that dog was simply destined to spend his outdoor time on the leash. Another neighbor has a dog that no matter what will not cross the warning beep. As soon as he hears it he high tails it back toward the house.

Invisible fencing is not right for every dog. Each dog is different, and each person must make the right choice for his pet. Evaluating the pros and cons of invisible fencing is an important part of making this decision.

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How to Train Your Puppy to Obey Basic Commands

By Suzanne Alicie

Puppies are cute and cuddly, and generally out of control. One of the first things a new puppy needs is training in basic commands. Sit, Stay, and Lie Down are the most basics commands to teach a puppy. When it comes to training a puppy it is important to be firm and consistent. Puppies learn from consistency and repetition, and responsible pet owners know that proper training can turn a wild puppy into a well mannered dog.

Teach Your Puppy to Sit

Initially you will need to get down on your puppy’s level and help him sit. A gentle push on the haunches while saying “sit” to your puppy will help him get the idea. When your puppy sits upon command the first few times, be sure to reward him with praise and a treat. One of the things we do in our house is make the dogs sit while we prepare their food bowls. It is a ritual that helps even hyperactive dogs contain a bit of that energy and mind their manners when being fed. Sit is a common command and one of the easiest to teach, even a young puppy.

Teach Your Puppy to Stay

This is a command that is a bit more difficult to teach. Puppies tend to want to follow, because they simply want to be close to you. To teach this command initially, you don’t want to step away from the puppy and tell him to stay. The easiest way to teach a young puppy to stay is to use a treat. Since repetition is the key it may be easier on your puppy’s tummy to break treats into many pieces, or use smaller treats like the CANIDAE Snap-Bits™.

Place a piece of the treat on the floor in between you and your puppy. Tell him to stay and hold a hand in front of him so that he can’t reach the treat. Scoot the treat closer to him until it is right in front of his nose, while repeating “stay.” In time you will find that when you say “stay” your puppy will do so, but it takes repetition. Consistency is the key, as well as not overwhelming the puppy with too many commands to learn all at once. Concentrate on one act at a time.

Teach Your Puppy to Lie Down

Lie down is another simple command, and an easy transition from sit. Many times when your puppy is sitting if you tap the floor under his nose he will lie down to touch your hand. So once you have repeated this action several times, start to say “lie down” when you reach toward the floor. Before you know it your puppy will lie down as soon as he hears the words. Again, treats and praise along with the repetition and consistency will help your puppy learn the command quickly.

Puppies are loving and eager to please. If you begin training early and consistently, it should not be difficult to train your puppy to obey these basic commands, and then you can move on to other tricks. Puppies can learn just about anything you feel like taking the time to teach them, from sitting pretty to dancing, jumping and speaking.

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How to Teach Your Dog to Roll Over

By Suzanne Alicie

Dogs love their masters, they love to please them and be rewarded with praise and treats. Pet owners love to see their dogs perform tricks and enjoy the interaction of training and working with them to teach them the tricks. One of the oldest tricks to teach a dog is to roll over. Dog training in and of itself can be challenging unless you understand how to relate to your dog. Teaching a dog a trick is similar to starting a child in kindergarten – you have to start with the basics and work your way up.

Teaching your dog to roll over is fairly simple once your dog has the basic obedience commands down. If your dog knows sit, stay and lie down, it will be easy to build on these commands and teach rolling over and even other tricks.

In order to teach your dog to roll over, you will need to start with having him lie down. Once he is lying down you can begin to use the words “roll over” followed by a belly rub and praise to get him to roll onto his back. This may take several sessions. But before you know it you will be able to say “lie down” and “roll over” and before the words are out your dog will be on his back waiting for his belly rub.

One you teach your dog to roll onto his back, you can place a treat beside his head and say roll over at the same time to teach him that rolling all the way over will get him a treat and praise instead of just a belly rub. It may take a while to teach your dog to roll all the way over without stopping in the middle, but with time and patience your dog will become an excellent roller.

Patience is the key when teaching your dog any trick. Repetition of the key phrases, treats and praise make it easy for your dog to understand what you want from him. Once your dog learns about rolling over you can leave out the treats as long as you remember to praise your dog when he performs the trick for you. Since dogs are often ambitious when it comes to pleasing their owners, training and teaching tricks is a time consuming, but relatively easy task.

Dogs are very intelligent creatures, and you may see that after a while your dog will go through a series of tricks as soon as you hold up a treat. He may show off his whole repertoire without you saying a word. This is always a fun time for families, when the training and effort they have put into teaching the dog tricks is rewarded effortlessly and enthusiastically.

There are many tricks that dogs can learn, from dancing and rolling over to fetching the paper or even opening doors. Once your dog knows the basic commands, you can explore all the fun tricks and talents he will be able to perform.

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11 Basic Commands Every Dog Needs to Know

By Linda Cole

We teach our children basic commands they need to know in order to stop them from running out in front of a car or putting something dangerous in their mouth. Puppies should also be taught certain commands for the same reason. Whether you adopt a puppy or prefer an older dog because it fits better with your lifestyle, there are certain basic commands every dog should know. Their safety could depend on it.

“Come” means to stop what he's doing and return to you. It's an easy command to teach, and important in an emergency, if he should break loose from his leash or pen, or rush out the front door when company arrives. The come command helps you control situations much easier, and allows you to keep your dog out of harm's way.

“Sit” is another easy command every dog should know. Dogs get excited when they're getting ready to go outside or go for a walk. Some have a hard time waiting while supper is being prepared and some dogs go bonkers when the doorbell rings. Teaching your dog to sit and wait helps subdue their excitement so you can answer the door, finish their supper or get their leash attached to their collar. The sit command also works well to keep them from jumping up on people.

“Stay” is harder for some dogs to learn, but it's well worth the time and patience it takes to teach it. Dogs don't always understand they could be in danger, and using stay can stop them from running in front of a car or grabbing something they shouldn't have. It gives you time to remove the danger or wait until it's gone. Staying can be hard for a dog to do when he sees something he wants, especially if it's a cat or squirrel in the yard across the street; however, it's an essential command every puppy and dog should know.

“Drop it.” How many times have you tried to wrestle something out of your dog's mouth? They don't know that the chicken bone clamped between their teeth is harmful for them. Instead of you prying their mouth open to retrieve whatever they've picked up, the drop it command makes life much easier for you. Knowing this command also makes playing fetch more fun when your dog returns the ball to you and drops it at your feet or in your hand so you can give it another toss.

“Leave it” is another good command for dogs to know, because it can give you peace of mind knowing they won't grab something they shouldn't have. Dogs can easily swallow whatever they've picked up if they think you want to take it away from them. And dogs have been known to swallow needles, safety pins and other small objects before their owners could retrieve the item. The leave it command tells the dog it's not for him.

“Wait.” This command is sometimes used in conjunction with stay although they are two different commands used for different reasons. A more energetic dog may need to be held in check for a short time. Wait tells him it's not time to go and he must stay where he is until you let him know he can move.

“Okay” is a command every dog should know because this releases them from any other command you've given him. Okay simply means the dog is free to move.

“No” tells your dog he can't have something, or to stop doing what he's doing. No should be used to stop unwanted behavior like chewing, jumping up on you or someone else, or biting.

“Heel” helps you control your dog while on a walk and when you are around other people or dogs. Instead of allowing your dog to pull on his leash, heel puts him by your side where you have better control of him should you meet another dog or person while walking.

“Off.” Not everyone enjoys having a dog jump up on them. This command tells them to stay down and not to jump up on you or someone else. It also keeps your dog off the furniture.

“Stand” is a command every dog should know because it makes it easier when you are trying to give him a bath or groom him. Teaching him to stand is also a big help during vet examinations or when you are trying to examine him yourself.

These eleven basic commands can help you keep your canine companion out of danger, and you will have a well mannered dog who understands and follows your wishes. For information on how to teach your dog some of these commands, read Basic Commands for Dogs: Heel and Stand, and Teaching Come and Stay.

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Why It's Important to Teach Your Dog to Come

By Linda Cole

Getting your dog to come when he's called can be frustrating, especially when he's playing. Your words can seem like they are going in one ear and out the other. There are times, however, when you do need your dog to come when he's called. It could save his life. Teach your dog to come each time he's called, and make sure he knows you expect him to respond every time.

Even well trained dogs can become so preoccupied with a smell or playing that a command to “come” may be ignored. Dogs may not hear you calling if they are engaged in a game of tag with another dog or in hot pursuit of a rabbit flushed from a hiding place. Dogs will be dogs, and chasing and running are two of their favorite things to do.

It can be difficult and time consuming to teach your dog to come, but it's worth the effort to make sure this basic command is something your dog understands well and is eager to respond to. If your dog doesn't come when called, he should never be let off his leash.

Be consistent when teaching your dog or puppy to come when called. If he's off leash, that means you trust him not to run away. However, most dogs can't resist a good chase if they see a rabbit or cat. If he's excited, coming when called may not be what he wants to do, but the dog who fully understands what come means should break off his pursuit when he's called. He knows it's a mandatory command and not one to respond to when he feels like it.

Dogs are great at manipulating us and, like kids, don't always want to spend an afternoon learning what we are trying to teach – especially if it's a command that takes them away from their play time. When you're ready to teach your dog to come, keep it simple, consistent and fun. This command is so important, it's well worth the time and frustration some owners experience when their dog doesn't want to cooperate. If your dog is playing and having fun, he may feel he's being punished when he has to stop playing. But a dog who doesn't come when called could put his owner and himself at risk in the event of an emergency. You have to make it so fun for him to come if you want him to respond every time.

Dogs can sense our anxiety and excitement during emergencies which can upset them. Those of us who have to deal with the prospect of tornadoes and sudden spring storms that could require quickly moving to a safe shelter, need to make sure our dogs come when they are called. Playing a game of you chasing your dog while a siren is sounding a warning is not good. Dogs have no concept of the danger at hand. Teach your dog to come for your piece of mind and safety.

An emergency includes stopping your dog before he runs in front of a car if his ball bounces into the street. He needs to understand you aren't punishing him by calling him back. Come means to stop now and return to you every time you call him no matter what he's doing. So make it fun from the start by giving your dog lots of praise when he follows your command. Make it a game he will love to play, and never punish him for not coming. You want only positive reinforcement associated with him coming to you.

My dogs are good about coming when they are called, but sometimes a squirrel racing up a tree in the backyard is too tempting to leave. Dogs are like us and if their attention is elsewhere, we need to be patient. You do need to get their attention, however, so they can follow your command. My dogs do understand the difference between calling them to come inside verses calling them if we have to move into a safer part of the house. They do understand my tone of voice.

Emergencies like fire, flash floods, out of control grass or forest fires, tornadoes, damaging winds, car accidents, etc. happen and you don't have time to try to persuade your dog to come to you. Some dogs get spooked and their instinct is to run away. If you take the time to teach your dog to come, when he's scared the positive reinforcement you taught him will make him feel safe. Your dog needs to come every time he's called regardless of what he's doing. By making “come” a positive requirement, you have taught him an important lesson he will remember his entire life.

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Johnny Peers and the Muttville Comix

By Julia Williams

What would you do if you adore dogs, are a natural born comedian and love to clown around? If you’re like Johnny Peers, you’d train a menagerie of lovable mutts to perform a comical canine routine with you, and proceed to tickle the funny bone of animal lovers nationwide. And that’s just what Johnny Peers and the Muttville Comix have done, for the last 30 years!

This clever collaboration between man and dog(s) is a delightful show. Featuring amazing canine feats, flawless comedic timing and fun choreography, Johnny Peers and the Muttville Comix gets audiences howling with laughter, and begging for more. Peers performs as a Chaplin-like clown who leads his 15 four-legged sidekicks through a series of challenging tricks and amusing antics. The personable pack of mutts jump rope, climb ladders, walk the tightrope, skateboard, knock Johnny down, and walk all over him. If I could only use three words to describe this unique slapstick act, I’d choose: hilarious, frenetic and entertaining.

I chatted with Johnny recently by phone, and the one word I’d choose to describe the man behind the Muttville Comix act is: joker. He claimed he could “dance like Michael Jackson,” and when I acted impressed he said, “no, not really.” When he found out I wasn’t married and liked cats, he asked “What’s wrong with you?” So it seems that Johnny, ever the comedian even without his dogs, props and stage makeup, has not only created a successful career out of doing something he loves, but what he does best – which is make people laugh.

Johnny’s comedic training began at an early age when, after discovering Charlie Chaplin movies, he proceeded to watch them nonstop. Then again, I suppose it didn’t hurt that Johnny grew up around the circus. His dad ran a concession stand for the Ringling Circus, and when Johnny wasn’t helping out there he’d sneak away to hang out with the clowns. He learned a few tricks and later, studied at the Ringling Clown College and graduated from there in 1970.

Johnny got his first pup from a shelter in 1972. She was a sweet little Beagle mix named Freckles, and when Johnny realized that she learned tricks easily, he decided to incorporate her into his comedy routine. “At the time, I didn't know anything about training dogs, but she and I worked out a great little act,” Johnny said. In 1980, after Johnny had adopted several more dogs –and better training methods –the Muttville Comix was born.

These days, Johnny and his canine comics travel from pet expos to state fairs to school assemblies in a fully equipped motor coach. His current roster of talented dog stars includes Daphne, reportedly the world’s only skateboarding Bassett Hound; a ladder-climbing Fox Terrier named Her Royal Squeaky; Sir Winston, a riotous Pointer mix who will only answer to “Sir”; and Mr. Pepe, who responds only to commands in Spanish.

Based on experience, Peers advises people who are interested in training their own dogs to: keep it short, happy and sweet. He says that dogs are great observers, and showing them what you want them to do is the best way to train them. And don’t forget to give them lots of treats and praise.

Based on his impressive resume, it would seem that Johnny does indeed know his stuff. Johnny Peers and the Muttville Comix have appeared in the Ringling Brothers & Barnum and Bailey Circus, on Primetime Live, Circus of the Stars, and David Letterman, at Disneyland, Busch Gardens and the Big Apple Circus. They won 1st place on Animal Planet's Pet Star for the 2003 season, and have even performed at the White House!

If you have a chance to see Johnny Peers and the Muttville Comix in person, I highly recommend that you go. Their next big appearance is at the West Michigan Pet Expo on April 24th and 25th in Grand Rapids, MI. You can also see a photo gallery and videos of Johnny Peers and his comedic canines in action here.

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How to Deal With Canine Cabin Fever

By Ruthie Bently

Almost every dog owner has had to deal with “canine cabin fever” at one time or another. When dogs suffer from cabin fever, they begin acting out like naughty children. They may leap up and go racing through the house for no apparent reason. They will chew inappropriate things in the house, like the sofa or a rug instead of their sterilized natural bone or rawhide. The most laid-back dog may begin showing signs of aggression or bark at guests that come to the house. They may even begin marking territory or eliminating in the house. This is normal behavior for a dog suffering from canine cabin fever.

Dogs can get cabin fever in any season, not just wintertime. My friend Wendy had to entertain three very energetic dogs during the recent rain storms in California. Here in Minnesota the snow is still so deep that Skye and I are not able to go for our regular walks or even play in her dog yard. There are several ways to help release all that pent up energy. If your house has a flight of stairs you can play fetch with your dog using the stairs. Take their favorite ball or chase toy and toss it down the stairs while you stand at the top. Have them bring it back to you and toss it for them about ten times or until they begin to get tired. If your house doesn’t have stairs you can toss the ball down the length of a long hallway or room.

You can also play hide and seek with a toy you can put treats into. Fill the cavity of the toy, and put your dog on a sit-stay in their crate or another room while you hide the toy. Then release them from their command and let them go find the toy. Doing this several times will help tire them out, and a tired dog is usually a contented dog. There are also many interactive toys that will test your dog’s brain power and make them think while letting them have fun.

If your house is not large enough, check with your local park district or dog trainers in the area to see if there is an indoor area you can take your dog to for exercise. Some trainers will even let you rent time at their training facility to exercise your dog. Take your dog for an extended walk around your local pet shop if they are allowed in the store. Consider taking an advanced obedience training course or agility class with your dog.

You might want to look into the Canine Good Citizenship class, which is the beginning leg for therapy dogs. After finishing a therapy dog course you can take your dog to visit schools, nursing homes and senior citizen centers. Besides getting some exercise and bonding with you, they will be working their brain as well as their body. If you have a treadmill, consider letting your dog use it to get some extra exercise. By setting it on a lower speed, your dog can get much needed exercise and you won’t have them bouncing off the walls or behaving inappropriately.

Another way to combat canine cabin fever is to get a dog training book and teach them some new tricks. Teach your dog to bring in the mail or the paper too. If the snow is not deep where you are and you’re able to get into your yard, consider a brightly colored flying disk or toy for your dog to fetch; this will make it easier for both of you to see. By recognizing the signs and symptoms of canine cabin fever, you and your dog can have a more peaceful time indoors and a more joyful relationship.

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Why Do Dogs Mark Their Territory?

By Ruthie Bently

Both male and female dogs mark their territory to let other animals (including humans) know that this is their space and it should not be trespassed upon or there will be consequences. Male dogs and some females will lift their leg. The reason is to leave their scent highest on the place they are marking. I know a female that both lifts her leg and squats. She learned the leg lifting because she grew up with a male dog; he was her role model and lifted his leg, so she does too.

Have you ever wondered why so many male dogs show up when your female goes into season for the first time? A male dog can tell by the smell of a female’s urine that she is in season and ready to breed, and they’ll come from quite a distance. A dog’s scent is carried on the wind and a dog’s sense of smell is so good, their competitors whether domestic or wild, get the warning at a distance. Before we had a fenced place for my AmStaff Skye, I’d leash walk her around the property. I let her amble where she wanted and she always chose the perimeters of the property, stopping every so often to do her business. We had coyotes when we moved here and saw one loping across our meadow once. After Skye came to live here we never saw them again, but we could hear them howling at night from a distance.

Sometimes a male dog will mark inside the house if he feels his territory is threatened, and this can pertain to his owner as well. I had a female client (Ms. Smith) with an adult intact male Akita named Buck. Ms. Smith began dating after a divorce, and Buck had an issue with her male friend. The dog would go into the bathroom and mark the toilet after her boyfriend had used it. Ms. Smith tried closing the bathroom door, but Buck then marked the door. Neutering wasn’t an option since Buck was a show dog and you cannot show a neutered dog in confirmation. I suggested that her boyfriend bring some dog treats when he came over. I hoped that having him give Buck a treat when he walked in and during the visit might help the dog become more accepting and be less apt to mark the toilet or bathroom door. It worked so well that Ms. Smith and her boyfriend got married, and Buck was the ring bearer at their wedding.

If you have a dog that is going potty in an inappropriate place, they can be retrained to go outside. I had to retrain Skye when she came to live here because she was used to going potty in a concrete run. She got to go outside and play with the other dogs and occasionally went on the grass, but usually waited to go back to her kennel to potty. Until I retrained her, Skye would have accidents in the house even if I took her outside every half hour. I spoke with an animal behaviorist recently and she explained that Skye could not differentiate between the concrete run floor and the kitchen floor because they were both smooth, flat surfaces. It is important to train a dog to go outside because the surfaces outside are different than the floors of a house.

I was able to use dog treats as a reinforcement for good behavior. I discovered the best approach was to reward Skye when she pottied outside, making sure to do so before we went back in the house. Now, she even barks to let me know when she needs to go outside. Having Skye properly house-trained has stopped her from marking inside the house, and has certainly made life easier!

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How to Choose the Right Dog Collar

By Ruthie Bently

Dogs should always wear a collar, whether it is for identification or training purposes. Not only that, most dogs wear collars from the time they are puppies until they leave us and cross the “rainbow bridge.” Choosing the right collar for your dog is very important; it needs to be comfortable, as well as being the right size and weight for them. There are other things to consider when purchasing a dog collar too. Is it for a new puppy or an adult dog? Is it for training, and if so what kind: obedience, confirmation or Schutzhund?

If you are choosing a collar for a puppy, just remember that they are teething and your beautiful leather collar may end up on the bottom of their crate if they get to it. When I was still in pet retail and sold a collar, our only alternatives were nylon or leather; now there are more choices. You can choose nylon, which is durable and easy to clean. Or you can choose cotton or hemp, both of which come from renewable sources. I like the renewable idea because I am a recycler, but do what fits your budget the best.

If you are choosing a collar for an adult dog, they are past the teething stage (though they may still be chewers) and a fancier collar is fine. I dressed Nimber in a collar made from saddle leather after he was an adult, and he looked great. Skye on the other hand, is a rough-and-tumble dog; she wears a decorated nylon collar that is easy to wash. When an everyday collar is fitted properly, you should be able to fit two fingers side by side between your dog’s collar and their body, and should not be able to pull the collar off over their head.

Are you looking for a training collar for your dog? Different trainers may require different collars for training; if it is a beginning obedience class most trainers prefer a choke collar. However, you should only have a choke collar on your dog when training, and it should be taken off as soon as training is finished. There are several link sizes, so make sure you get the appropriate link size. Don’t use a collar on a puppy that would be more suited to a two year old dog, choose a choke collar with smaller links.

A choke collar that fits well should not fall off over your dog’s head; however, it should be loose enough that it doesn’t choke your dog on its own. To fit a choke on your dog, face your dog, form the choke collar into the shape of the letter “P” and put it over their head. When fitted correctly you should have about four fingers worth of draw when making your correction. Too much or too little draw and your correction will have no effect on your dog.

The “pinch” collar is another training collar, so called because it pinches the dog’s neck much like a mother dog does with her teeth when she is disciplining a puppy. The pinch collar also has different link sizes, and links can be added and removed as needed. This collar does not go over the dog’s head, and when fitted properly should have about two inches on each side of the center ring that lies on your dog’s body. I prefer the pinch collar, as it does not cut off a dog’s wind, and I can give a firm, but gentle correction to get the results I desire.

You should check your dog’s regular collar every day to make sure that the stitching, buckle and any rhinestones or additions are not loose or coming apart. Your training collar should be checked daily as well for rust and elongated end rings. If the plating is beginning to come off, cease using it, as you can get metal slivers from the burrs that the wear of the plating can create. If this happens you should replace the collar with a new one.

Whichever collar you choose, whether it is for training, everyday wear or fancy dress, it should fit your dog properly and wear well. After all, you wouldn’t go to work wearing a tie with a hole in it or a pair of pantyhose that is three sizes too small.

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Skijoring: A Fun Sport for You and Your Dog

By Suzanne Alicie

They say curiosity killed the cat. In my case, curiosity only bruised my hind parts. Thanks to the recent snowfall on the East Coast I had a chance to try out skijoring with my dog. A Samoyed breed, she loves the snow and cold. I on the other hand, would rather be in the warm house. Having read up a little bit on skijoring, I decided I had to give it a try.

For those who haven’t heard of skijoring, it is a sport for a person and a dog. The person straps on skis and has their ski poles while the dog is placed in a harness which is attached to the person’s waist. I didn’t go out and get any special equipment just to test this. I used our walking harness and attached the leash to my belt with a clip.

So I wrapped up and got us both all hitched together, then let her pull me along the driveway. Everything went well, as long as we were moving. Once she stopped I kept right on going, ending up in a pile of snow with my big white dog looking at me like I had lost my mind. I am blaming that on the icy surface of the snow, not myself or the dog.

Skijoring is not an experience I will be repeating; however, many people spend hours every day honing their skill and forming a bond with their skijoring partner. Skijoring requires a great deal of skill, training and trust between the person and the dog.

Skijoring is a very popular sport for dog owners in the colder climates, where it is a competitive sport including slalom, obstacles and both sprint and long runs. Of course, skijoring is aimed at cross country skiing, and not downhill! There are several companies that specialize in skijoring equipment, dog training and tournaments. Skijoring is also done with horses, and motor vehicles such as snowmobiles. The name skijoring is from a Norwegian word that means ski driving. Some variations of skijoring include snowboarding with a dog to pull you, and even skijoring on grassy fields instead of snow.

The most common dogs for skijoring are athletic and herding breeds such as pointers and setters. All the northern breeds such as Samoyeds, Huskies and Malamutes are naturally inclined and enjoy this sport. But if you are interested in skijoring, pretty much any mid to large sized energetic breed will be capable of pulling you. The dogs that compete in skijoring competitions are trained with the person on foot initially. To be a successful skijoring dog, the animals must learn to pass another dog without stopping to greet them.

If you are in a cold climate and enjoy cross country skiing, you may appreciate the sport of skijoring as a way to spend more time with your dog and to form a closer bond with him as well. Skijoring is excellent exercise for your dog as well as a way to expend excess energy and advance your dog's trained behavior. The training learned for skijoring will carry over in your dog’s everyday living, much the same as the military bearing of a soldier is noticeable even when he isn’t in uniform.

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Good Books for Dog Owners

By Ruthie Bently

Are you looking for the perfect book for yourself or a relative that owns a dog or a new puppy? With so many choices available these days, how do you find the right one? I have always loved reading and as a buyer of pet products I’ve reviewed many books in my career. When the books went on sale I was usually one of the first in line to add a new book to my personal library.

There is a plethora of dog books available, but in my opinion several stand out from the pack. One great resource for any dog owner is the AKC’s Complete Dog Book, which is now in its twentieth edition. It’s a wonderful book for anyone considering a purebred dog. This comprehensive book covers the 153 AKC recognized breeds at the time of its January 2006 publication. It lists the standards for each breed along with pictures and histories. You get information on how to choose the right dog, as well as nutrition, training, grooming and how to join a dog club. It also lists all the AKC sports available to owners and their dogs. It even discusses how to be a responsible breeder and the Canine Good Citizen® program.

If you’ve already decided on a breed and need a good puppy training book, read The Art of Raising a Puppy, by the Monks of New Skete. The Monks have written several books on dog training, as that is their chosen vocation. This 274-page hardcover book has more than 80 photographs, and discusses how to deal with common puppy issues like paper training, jumping up, chewing and communication. It covers a puppy’s stages of development, and teaches you how to train your puppy with compassion and common sense. The follow-up book, How to Be Your Dog’s Best Friend, builds on the foundation of the first book.

How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With, by Clarice Rutherford and David H. Neil, is a wonderful book for raising a puppy whether they are newborns or a year old. This book is often suggested to new puppy owners by their breeder. It discusses the development of a puppy’s mind and body, and offers suggestions for shaping them into a well behaved, well adjusted dog. It also covers health care and positive methods for training and socializing your puppy.

Richard Wolters wrote several books on dog training, and Family Dog is another winner. This book makes it easy to train a dog, and will work for any age or breed. He discusses the idea that a puppy is ready to train when they are exactly forty-nine days old. You can train a dog in sixteen weeks by using his simple time tested method, which includes teaching basic commands, housebreaking and even tricks. The book doesn’t stop at training though; it discusses how to pick the right dog, first aid and medical information, grooming tips, how to talk to your dog, and why play and relaxation are important.

Another of my personal favorites is Wendy Nan Rees’ Dog Lover’s Daily Companion: 365 Days of Tips, Tricks, and Techniques for Living a Rich Life with Your Dog. You can read it front to back or open it to any page and will find wonderful information for a lifetime of dog owning, whether you have a puppy or an adult dog. It includes a wealth of information on basic dog ownership, including the supplies and training equipment you may need. It also discusses traveling with your pet, health information, selecting your vet, basic grooming and first aid. It gives you tips on cleaning, organizing and housekeeping for your dog, and explains how to bond and build a better relationship with your dog. There are recipes for deodorizers, cleaners, and even gifts for your human friends with “doggy” children. You can create your own dog placemats or photo album, as well as a dog-friendly pantry. There is even a “Dog Zodiac,” which tells you what your dog may be like; Skye is a Leo and her horoscope is right on target.

All of these are good books for dog owners. Whichever one you choose, you cannot go wrong!

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How to Stop Puppy Biting Before It's a Problem

By Linda Cole

Most puppies gnaw, chew and bite everything in sight, including our fingers, hands and toes. They have an unlimited supply of energy when they are awake, with a playful spirit that only adds to their cuteness. Puppy biting may seem innocent enough, but if it isn't addressed early, a bigger and more aggressive adult dog could accidentally hurt a family member during play. It's up to us as the pack leader to set rules and limitations for our dogs, and it’s important to stop puppy biting before it becomes a problem. Luckily, there's a simple solution that's safe and harmless for the pup, and easy to learn.

The first step in stopping the behavior is to understand why puppies bite. Each dog has to learn their place in the social order of the pack. Puppies play fight and bite their litter mates in order to determine where they fit in. A more aggressive biter is showing he is more dominant which could make it harder to stop your puppy from biting.

As the pack leader, it's up to us to teach a dog what our pack rules are as soon as possible. Nipping and grabbing hands or noses during play may seem cute until someone gets hurt. It's best to correct now what will be unacceptable behavior when the pup grows up. Consistency, patience, staying calm and never hitting the dog is the key to training a puppy or an older dog. We may have a dog's unconditional love, but we also want his respect and trust. If you lose your dog's respect and trust, it will be a constant battle every time you try to teach him anything.

It may take some time to teach your puppy not to bite. Normally, this can be accomplished in two weeks up to a couple of months, so don't give up. The first thing to remember is not to scare the puppy. You want to correct a behavioral problem, not make him afraid of you. Every time your puppy bites or attempts to bite your hand, look directly at him and say “Hey” or “No” in a stern voice. Don't use your hands to push him away. He thinks your hands are paws and you are still playing. Break eye contact with him and turn your side to him or simply get up and walk away. By ignoring him and leaving the puppy with no one to play with, you are teaching him that biting is unacceptable. This is how he learns what you expect and what behavior is acceptable. When he plays nicely and doesn't bite, be sure to praise him for good behavior.

For most puppies, walking away from them works well. If you have a more stubborn pup, you may need to be more assertive to stop them from biting. If after a couple of weeks he still bites, continue with the stern “No” or “Hey” and if he doesn't stop, use a spray bottle filled with water and squirt him on the nose. It won't hurt him and the sudden spray should get his attention. If he continues to bite, give him another squirt and then get up and leave or turn away from him. He will learn that if he wants to continue playing, he can't bite. Of course you need to remember that a dog at any age will use his mouth or bite to communicate with other members of his pack and we are considered part of the pack. Sometimes a nip is meant to tell us something important we need to pay attention to.

Any puppy or dog training needs to be done while you are calm and patient. If you get excited, so will the puppy. Just like kids, dogs need direction so they can understand what is expected from them. Consistent and calm repetition is the best way for your puppy to learn. Make sure everyone in the family uses the same method to stop your puppy from biting.

A puppy has sharp little teeth and can do a lot of damage, especially if they chomp down on a child's hand. The sooner you stop a puppy from biting, the better. Never yell at or hit your pup because this can lead to other behavior problems as they grow into adults, and you risk losing their trust and respect. He's only behaving like a normal puppy should. It's our job to teach him that although we love him, there are things we, as his pack leader, won't accept and biting is one of them. Most puppy biting will cease naturally as they get older. But if it doesn't, you need to stop it before it becomes a problem.

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The Right Way to Discipline a Dog

By Ruthie Bently

I grew up with several dogs and got to see training methods first hand. I have seen both well trained and unruly dogs and have found that the old maxim is true: “you can catch more flies with honey than vinegar.” As I get older, my life experiences have taught me that this is true and I have been applying it to my training methods.

Growing up, if a dog had an “accident” in the house they got their nose rubbed in it. In my mind all this resulted in was a dirty nose which had to be cleaned. One of my favorite memories (though probably not for my grandfather) happened on a Sunday morning. Grandpa was reading his paper in the living room, with it spread on the floor in front of the couch. Grandma’s dog Peggy came in, walked right over to the newspaper, and relieved herself. Grandpa started blustering for Grandma to come get her “damn” dog. Grandma picked up Peggy and dutifully carried her outside, praising her the whole time. You see, Peggy had been trained to go on newspaper and though hers was in the kitchen, she probably thought Grandpa’s paper was for her.

Growing up, if a dog chewed something “off limits” they got hit on the butt with it. I remember watching the floor near a dog being hit with the damaged item and the dog cringing. When my dog Katie’s playmate passed, she grieved and took to chewing shoes. I put them behind a closed closet door on a high shelf, and she still got to them. This taught me to take responsibility for my own actions around the house, yard and anywhere else Katie would be. Things she could reach had to be moved out of reach or it was my fault that she got them. This means if you leave your cell phone, glasses or TV remote where your dog can reach them, you have to take responsibility for your dog being able to get to them – and believe me dogs can be very inventive.

When your dog does something wrong they should be disciplined, but while they may know you are angry at them, they may not know why. Catching them in the “naughty” act is easier to discipline because if it is after the fact, they won’t understand what you are mad about. If your dog chews something inappropriate, take it away from them. Tell them “NO” in a strong voice and hand them something that is OK to chew. Using praise to get them to chew their own toy or taking them outside for a game of “catch the chewy” will help.

If you have been away and the dog had an accident in the house, you may have been gone too long. While Skye is housebroken, she does have accidents from time to time. I take any solids outside to her “potty” spot and leave them. If the stain is liquid, I mop it up, carry the paper towels outside and put them in the composter after showing Skye where she is supposed to go.

Several articles I’ve read on discipline agree that you need to take responsibility for your actions, and your dog will react to body language you project when you are angry. An angry scowl, raised voice or hands on your hips is a dead giveaway. Don’t get me wrong, it’s hard to smile and make nice when the dog has just done something naughty. However, beating, yelling and shouting will only make your dog more fearful of you. It also makes them less likely to come the next time they hear your angry voice. Try to keep your voice quiet and project a sense of calm when calling your dog after a misdeed, and then discipline them.

One of my clients came home one day to find that their Border Collie had torn the fringe off an antique rug in the living room. They liked the rug there and didn’t want to ban the dog from the living room. They respected their dog enough to try and figure out why it was suddenly acting out. We did some research and found that the dog had herded sheep and the rug was made of wool. The dog, trying to herd the “perceived sheep” was nipping the fringe off the rug, much as it would nip the heels of the sheep to get them to move. The rug got repaired and moved to another room.

Respecting your dog is an important aspect of proper discipline. When I trained my first dog, I added several training books to my library. Now almost thirty later I’m reading about a newer concept that makes more sense to me: respect. I’m not trying to humanize my dog but she is a sentient creature and when I treat her with respect, I get better results than if I treat her like a “dumb animal.” This means not overtraining Skye, and making sure there is a balance between training, working time and playtime. I’ve found this to be a happy medium and though we still have issues sometimes, Skye personally likes the “honey” method.

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How to Choose the Right Dog Obedience Class

By Ruthie Bently

It’s very important to find the right obedience class for you and your dog, whether they are a puppy or an adult. If you get into a class that is too advanced, not advanced enough or not the right fit, it can spoil the training experience for both of you. It can put you off obedience training, and put your dog off wanting to go to class and learn.

The age of your dog will help determine what kind of an obedience class to look for. Does your dog need basic training, or are you looking for something more advanced? When I brought my first dog Nimber home, he was only six weeks old and no class would take him because he was too young.

If you got your dog from a breeder, does the breeder want you to show the dog? If so, you will want to get into a confirmation class, which is a bit different from a regular obedience course. Your breeder should be able to help you find one if you can’t find one locally. Usually, training facilities will have more than one class for different ages. If you can get your puppy into a class at about three to four months, so much the better; the younger the puppy the faster they seem to learn. Unfortunately, many training classes don’t accept puppies under six months old.

To find an obedience class, ask your veterinarian, friends and family members, and check with your local park district office or YMCA. After you find a class that you may be interested in, call the facility and ask to see their training area. Does it look clean and well maintained, or does it smell of urine and feces? This is important because puppies can pick up bacteria and worms just by walking across a dirty floor. Do they have indoor facilities for bad weather or classes held during winter months? After you finish your first class, are there subsequent classes that teach the next levels of obedience training?

Some trainers will let you audit their class; this will help you determine if this is the right class for you and your dog. If you are able to audit a class, get there early so you can see the class from the beginning. Is there a recap session at the beginning of each class where you can show the trainer what your dog has done? This helps the trainer determine if your dog is doing the command correctly and if you are teaching it correctly.

Watch the trainer carefully to see if their method is one you can agree with. Is the trainer and staff congenial, or are they just passing time? Are they kind to the dogs or do they manhandle them? Get the trainer’s permission to talk to some of the students that are in class the night you visit. Ask them about the trainer’s methods, how well they interact with the dogs and how well they explain the commands you need to teach your dog. This may sound trivial, but it is important that you can understand what the trainer is trying to teach you and that the learning environment is beneficial to both you and your dog.

How long has the trainer been teaching, and what are their qualifications? Does the class instructor require a health certificate or vaccination record for all the dogs? If they don’t, you may want to think twice about participating in this training class. Before taking your dog to any obedience class make sure they have had all the appropriate inoculations; you don’t want your dog getting sick from another dog in class that may not be inoculated correctly.

The size of the obedience class is important as well; it will determine how much “hands on” assistance you will get from your trainer. If the class is too large, the trainer may be spread too thin and may miss something that you and your dog need to work on. I was able to get Nimber into a class with fourteen other dogs and our trainer had two assistants to help her. In my opinion, a good class size is between ten and fifteen dogs.

Every dog, no matter the age, needs to be obedient or you could have the equivalent of a “terrible two-year old” on your hands. By doing your research, you can find an obedience class that both you and your dog will want to attend. The benefits of an obedience training class are many; not to mention that you and your dog will make new friends, and you will have a well-mannered dog that is a joy to be around.

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